It has been a little over a week since we have been in Brisbane and it is absolutely lovely. Our last week before we left Seoul when I was chatting with friends and family we were making lots of jokes about how I was going to be when I could finally communicate with the locals again. We could imagine myself doing pretty much anything from standing on a corner with a sign that said either “friends wanted” or “free hugs.” To me being like Buddy the Elf in the movie Elf and that the first time someone talked to me I’d be like “Hi my name is Alison, do you want to be my best friend, here’s my Instagram handle and my number and…call me!” Without coming up for air. The best was when my sister was like “by the time you leave Australia your picture is going to be up in every bar with a note that says “If you see this American do NOT give her your number!”” ???
Needless to say that is pretty much how it has been. ?
Everyone is so nice and being able to connect with the locals again has been a dream. Even in just a short chat, people have written down recommendations of things for us to see and do. It has been wonderful. We really went wild on our first trip to the grocery store. It was so fun to be able to buy all these things that we haven’t been able to get in a while and to know what they are and how to prepare them without using Google lens. I wouldn’t change the previous 10 weeks, other than maybe being better at the languages, and for those of you who know how social I am, it feels good to be back to feeling more like myself. I feel like if I were a cartoon I went from being a tiny grey raincloud to being the sunshine. Part of that might have to also do with how lovely the weather has been here too. Aside from a couple days, it has been mid to upper 80s, in that “made up” Fahrenheit, sunny and warm.
Brisbane is a beautiful city with lots of parks, museums and libraries. There is so much to see and do. One of my favorite things has been riding the ferry on the “The Brown Snake” river that runs through the city. I’m convinced that if we lived here I would want a job on the ferry. ”The Brisbane River has Indigenous names like Maiwar (Turrbal/Yuggera) and Meanjin, with Maiwar referring to the river and Meanjin to the specific land area around the city.” They do a great job here of acknowledging the Indigenous Peoples whose land we are on. When we visited the Brisbane Art Gallery and were introduced to a couple of the pieces of Aboriginal art by one of the docents that was the first thing that she acknowledged.
We’ve also really enjoyed bars and breweries being open before 5pm so that Dave and I can go to some together while he’s awake. Drinking something other than light lager has been a real treat even though it is quite a bit more expensive. We’ve also noticed how many different kinds of birds there are here. It is almost like we’re back in Paraguay. We didn’t see as many birds where we were in Japan and South Korea. Other than gigantic crows that sound like the Count on Sesame Street. I didn’t realize how much I missed it. The sunrise is around 4:45am and you can hear the birds happily singing outside of our window. There is one that sounds like a human whistling. When I looked it up Google thought it might be the Pied Butcherbird but I haven’t been able to get a picture of it yet.
The only thing that might be giving birds a run for their money, multitude wise, is, of all things, helmets. They are all over the place! I feel like it is Brisbane’s way of casually telling its citizens to stay safe. Brisbane seems to be a very active city and we’ve seen many cyclists with zip ties popping out of their helmets. When I Googled it it said that it is to keep the swooping magpies from dive-bombing their heads while trying to protect their young. My goodness I love learning new things!
One other wonderful thing about being here is that we know someone! Dave’s cousin’s step-daughter lives here and last week we were able to meet up with her and her eight month old son who is an absolute sweetheart. We had met her once before but it has been over 15 years and it was so special to be able to reconnect. Her brother lives in Melbourne so we hope to be able to meet up with him as well while we’re there.
We had hoped to visit the Gold Coast and Surfers Paradise beach this past weekend but there were train closures so we’re going to try again this week. Our time here has been flying! We’re only in Brisbane for two weeks so that means we leave for Sydney on Saturday already. We’re so incredibly thankful that we’ll be able to spend two months total in Australia. To see and experience different cities. To have this extended period of time to really immerse ourselves in a place that we’ve been dreaming of visiting for years is such a gift and we plan on taking advantage of every minute. I hope everyone enjoys their holidays whatever you celebrate! We’ll definitely miss being with ours. Sending you love wherever you are!
❤️Alison
Our last week in Seoul we visited the Korean War Memorial and Museum.This statue is a symbol of the Korean War and the hopes for peaceful reunification of North and South Korea. The Korean War Memorial Museum. Around the outside of the museum they have Naval ships and Airforce planes that you can see. This one you could go inside of. The Wall of Remembrance. About 700,000 South Korean and 900,000 North Korean civilians perished as a result of the war.This is a replica of the Kobuksan or Turtle Ship. It was the worlds first iron-armored warship. It is located inside the Korean War Memorial Museum. This is a traditional Korean drum called a pungmul or buk. I was excited to find my first bloody mary since Hawaii at The Royal Food and Drink. It was delicious. Complete with a view!We also discovered a delicious bibimbap restaurant in our neighborhood called Bebab Bibimbap Korean Restaurant. It was so delicious we went back for our Thanksgiving meal. This the the beef short rib. We made it to Bukhansan National Park and took a hike. This is actually a view of the mountain range I took from the car on the way there. It was a beautiful place. Our hike had some pretty incredible views. Our last day we visited the outside of the World Cup StadiumAnd then I walked to Mangwan Riverside Terrace.And took in the view of the skyline along the Han River. I’m glad we went to Seoul and I would definitely go back. Before we came to Australia we were very surprised to have several people tell us that they would never visit here because there are too many things that can kill you! This sign was posted where we were waiting for our taxi to bring us to our Air BnB after arriving in Brisbane. This is a mural outside of one of our local beer bars called the Scratch. Our first day, after the nine hour flight from Seoul, we arrived at about 7am. Our gracious Air BnB host let us check in early so we could shower and take a nap. The rest of the day we just explored around our neighborhood. Australian White Ibis. Australian Magpie. My lovely reading spot at our Air BnB. Our first full day, after eleven hours of sleep-I guess I was tired, we decided to venture out and try and watch the Timberwolves play basketball on TV at the Star Casino. But first fuel in the form of this incredibly delicious mushroom roasti at The Regatta Hotel. Insert drool face here!On our way to our first ferry ride. The Poinciana trees, which are native to Madagascar, are beautiful this time of year. The beginning of a great love story! The views of Brisbane’s skyline from the river are spectacular!There are so many cool bridges and of course the quintessential ferris wheel. They weren’t able to get the game to play so we improvised. It must’ve been good luck because they won!After the game we went up to the Sky Deck on the 23rd floor and took in the views from above. They were pretty incredible. Brisbane is beautiful.The State Library of Queensland was a fun place to visit. They have Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art, plenty of places to read and a great view of the river. Australian Brushturkey. Glasshouse Theater at the Queensland Performing Arts Center. The Southbank Parklands is one of the many parks and walking areas along the river. Star Casino at golden hour. One beautiful sunset captured from the ferry. Most of the ferries are called “City Cat.” There are smaller ferries called “Kitty Cat.” And there is one special ferry that has the famous Australian cartoon dog Bluey on it and that ferry is called “City Dog.” It is a special day when that is the ferry you catch. 🙂It’s pretty cute. Further down the river from our stop you can get a good view of the CBD (Central Business District) and the Kangaroo Point Bridge. Not too far past that is the Story Bridge. “Built during the great depression it is the largest steel cantilever bridge designed, fabricated, and constructed in Australia by Australians.”Cool murals along the back of Felons Brewery.The view from the deck at Felons underneath Story Bridge. There are several different loops along the river that you can walk and cycle on. It is another great way to take in the views. You can understand why Brisbane is such an active city. We loved visiting the City Botanical Gardens. We saw several new birds and wildlife. This is a Buff-banded Rail. The Australian White Ibis are everywhere. I love their beaks. Eastern Water Dragon. Dusky Moorhen. Kinda blurry.Another Eastern Water Dragon. It is a beautiful garden right in the city, which you know I’m a huge fan of. Bush Stone-curlew. Also known as the Bush Thick-knee which you can see why. This one got up when we walked past. My guess is it was protecting the other one that was probably sitting on their nest. It was another great day. More Australian Magpie.We visited the Queensland Art Gallery which had a huge exhibit of Aboriginal and Torres Straight Islander art. This piece is entitled “Guan Wei Echo 2005”. It is by Sydney-based artist Guan Wei. In it “he draws on his Chinese heritage to illustrate the complexities of conquest, colonization and cultural confrontation.”“Dingo 2002” by Craig Koomeeta who is part of the Wik-Alkan people.“Tribal Brothers 1982” by artist Thanakupi from the Thaynakwith people. “Each panel portrays a different creation story of the Thungganh tribal brothers.”Madeleine Kelly “Choreography of war reportage 2002”Lin Onus from the Yorta Yorta people. ” Morumbeeja Pitoa (Floods and Moonlight) This piece is one of the two the docent told us about. The layers and the reflection of the trees in the water and almost under the water and the way the moon shines through the clouds are all truly spectacular. We went to New Farm Park on Saturday after we weren’t able to go to the Gold Coast and found a fun farmers market and Performing Arts Space. An art installation at Kangaroo Point Cliffs. This is a sculpture entitled “The World Turns” by New Zealand artist Michael Parekowhai. It is outside of the Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA). “What’s Love 2021” by Hossein Valamanesh. This is the word love in Farsi written in gold leaf. Inside of GOMA. “Bloodlines 1993” by Gordon Bennett. Archie Moore “Kith and Kin”. The black shadow on the floor is actually a reflective pool which serves as a memorial for First Nations individuals who have died in police custody in Australia. We learned that Indigenous Australians are some of the most incarcerated people globally. “Kith and Kin”. In this installation the artist draws with chalk his holographic map that traces his family history more than 65,000 years. It was a pretty powerful installation. Views from inside GOMA.Creating with Lego. “Contraptions” by Indigenous Australian artist Lin Onus. In this work “the artist uses irony, wit, and whimsy to explore the collision of contrasting cultural values.” Coincidentally this is the same artist that did the “Floods and Moonlight” piece we saw at the Art Gallery. Just a few of the helmets around town. Dave has entitled this piece “Hooray for hanging helmets helping heads stay healthy.” The teacher in me thinks, “looks like lice.” ?My friendly writing companion. 🙂
The reason for the title of this chapter “Seoul, my soul” is that it is the tagline for the city of Seoul. “It signifies a city centered on its citizens, where their collective emotions and experiences create a better, more vibrant Seoul. The slogan also cleverly uses the similar pronunciation of “Seoul” and “soul” to convey the meaning of a city that can fill and move the soul of both its residents and visitors.” I think it is true so I thought it would be a good place to start my update on how things have been going since we left Japan. My trip to Kobe really helped me get through that second week in Osaka. On my second day there I had delicious Kobe beef, explored the waterfront area and got some much needed R&R. The day before we left Osaka we visited the Suntory Yamazaki Distillery Museum and it was a fun and delicious way to finish off our time in Japan.
We’ve been in Seoul now since the 7th and it has been truly lovely. It actually reminds me a lot of Tokyo although the subway system took a little more time to figure out. Seoul is peaceful and quiet and prides itself on parks and green spaces. I didn’t do a lot of research before we arrived in Seoul so our first night after Dave went to bed I started researching. I like to create a check list for every city we visit with not only sites to see but also neighborhoods, shops, restaurants, bars, libraries, grocery stores and sometimes laundromats. When you spend three weeks in a place you aren’t only going sight seeing everyday so I find it useful when getting to know a city a little bit more personally. After about an hour or so of research I was getting a little worried about why Google Maps, which is what I always use, wasn’t giving me the walking distance for any of the destinations, only public transportation. I love to walk everywhere if possible and I started think, well maybe Seoul isn’t very walkable? Finally when Google was giving me a 15 minute bus route for a destination that looked like it was across the street on the map I figured something had to be wrong. When I Googled “why doesn’t Google Maps work in Seoul?” the results explained that “South Korean law prohibits the export of high-resolution mapping data for national security reasons” and recommended two other apps to use for navigation, which I promptly downloaded, and got back on track. I also noticed that you often need the Korean name for a destination if you want one of their apps to find it so that has also been a steep learning curve. They have UBER here which is nice when you need it but the Taxis aren’t able to find our Air BnB address because it isn’t in Korean. We walk or take the subway most of the time anyway and it was good information to learn early on in our stay.
In the past week and half since we’ve been here, we visited several of the palaces, which posed the question of if Korea had Emperors like Japan did? After a quick Google search we learned, “Yes, Korea had emperors, but only for a brief period in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. King Gojong proclaimed the Korean Empire in 1897, becoming the first emperor, but was forced to abdicate in 1907, and his son, Emperor Sunjong, was the last emperor until Japan annexed Korea in 1910.” We also found that the palaces seemed to have a strong Chinese influence so I also researched that and found, “Yes, it is correct that Seoul’s palaces have significant Chinese architectural influence due to long-standing cultural exchange. While the palaces were adapted and built in unique Korean styles, they were founded on Chinese-influenced principles like Confucianism and used architectural forms and planning methods that originated in China.” What did we do before Google? Oh yeah, Encyclopedias!
On Saturday we started off the celebration of Dave’s 48th year of life with a trip to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) which separates North and South Korea and learned a lot about the cultural significances and differences between North Korea (Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) and South Korea (The Republic of Korea (ROK). There was a lot of new learning, one for me, being that they are considered two different countries. I knew that they had different politics and leaders but I thought they were both republics not countries. Which begged the question, are Republics and countries the same thing? “All republics are countries, but not all countries are republics because countries can have other forms of government, such as a monarch.” I love learning new things! We weren’t able to take many pictures when we went to Dora Observatory for security reasons but were able to take some at the Third Infiltration Tunnel on our tour. At the Dora Observatory there were signs everywhere saying that you could go to prison for three years if you took pictures but our guide did share some pictures that he was able to take before it was banned. The stark difference between the countries that you could see just from looking over the border were significant. We also learned that there are still over two million land mines in the DMZ and that if people in the DPRK get caught watching ROK dramas they could go to prison for five years. We couldn’t help but feel for the people that lived across the border and tried to put ourselves in their shoes. I can’t even imagine. It definitely makes you grateful to have been lucky enough to have been born where you were. Something that you have no control over.
On Sunday we visited the beautiful Gyeongbokgung Palace and gardens. It warmed up to 60 degrees and then was down to 40 degrees on Monday which I feel very similar to the fall weather in Minnesota, even though Seoul is further south latitudinally. The leaf peeping has continued to be in full effect here though and the sun has been out everyday, for the most part, which I feel is different from in MN. Even when it is chilly, sunshine makes a huge difference! We finished off the birthday celebration with a delicious meal of Korean BBQ on Monday, his actual birthday, at Il Pyeon Deung Sim, which is very popular in Seoul and is known for using only the top 4% of wagyu aged 21 days. Which really doesn’t mean anything to me but Dave was excited about. We feasted on tenderloin and ribeye cap with gold leaf and vegetables and Dave ended the day with a big piece of chocolate cake. I think he was happy.
Yesterday we climbed Namsan Mountain and took in the sights above the city, the city walls, the botanical garden and the N Seoul Tower. It was beautiful. We still have about a week and a half before we leave for Australia and hope to visit Bukhansan National Park next weekend. I am truly loving Seoul and going on nine weeks of the language barrier has left me feeling pretty lonely. I was talking with my friend about this and she reminded me about why it is so important, when we were teaching, to make sure that our English Language Learners were placed in classrooms with at least one other student that spoke their common language whenever possible. You need those experiences to feel connected. I learned some Japanese and have been trying to learn some Korean and am finding it to be a very challenging language for me to learn. For example, phonetically this is hello: annyeonghaseyo and this is thank you: gamsahamnida but the “g” makes a “k” sound and the “m” makes a “b” sound and oy!
I am also realizing how significant a part, connecting with the locals, has played for me during this adventure and I’m really looking forward to being able to connect again over a common language when we go to Australia. And, I’m trying to stay as present as possible, and not wish away a minute of it because I know that it is going to be a very long time until we’re able to come back to any of these places. Enjoy every minute you have with your loved ones. Sending you love wherever you are!
♥️Alison
Ps I almost forgot!!! We have a new tab on our outoftheswamlows.com website! “Dave’s Photo Gallery”. I know several of you have been asking to see more of Dave’s photography and now you can. Check it out! ?
Kobe lunch at Kobe Beef Yakiniku Okatora Sannomiya, in Kobe. All of this, plus all you can drink, for under $50!China Town, Kobe. Fish sculpture in front of the restaurant Fish in the Forest near the waterfront in Kobe. Enjoying some of the murals. Kobe Maritime Museum and Kobe Port Tower. Meriken Park, Kobe, Japan. Kobe Port Tower. Yamazaki reminded us a lot of Kyoto.The Yamazaki Whisky Museum did not disappoint. It was fun to taste some of the different kinds that we haven’t tried before. It was a great way to say sayonara to Osaka after seven weeks in Japan!Cute mural right outside our Air BnB in the Mapo neighborhood of Seoul.World Cup commemorative sculpture in the pedestrian/ shopping area of Hongdae near our Air BnB. The ginkgo trees, albeit stinky, have beautiful leaves right now. Exploring “Piccaso Street” near Hongik University, Seoul. We haven’t seen the seasons change in ten months so brace yourself to a lot of pictures of leaves! 😉Wausan Mountain Park. “Under Stand Avenue” in the Seongsudong Neighborhood, which is known as the “Brooklyn” of Seoul. Entering Seoul Forest Park. Sculpture by Korean artist Kim Woojin. Seoul Forest is a beautiful park!Right in the city. And provided some amazing leaf peeping! The “Brooklyn” area of Seoul was really cool!There were tons of pop-ups and unique shopping experiences. Dave had to head back after that so I took the subway to Bukchon Hanok Village. Which is a very popular traditional village in Seoul. I definitely wasn’t alone, and it was cool to see!The views were pretty spectacular! Bukchon Hanok Village.After the village I walked over to the Gyeongbokgung Palace grounds and saw the Pagoda of the Gyeongcheonsa Temple.The detail on these buildings are STUNNING! It was a great day! The next day we went out to find Dave’s colocation place. The sculpture is in the Hongdae district as entitled “Night Mind.” After locating Dave’s work place we walked some of the Gyeongui Line Forest Park. This park is part of an urban regeneration project. It transformed the defunct section of Gyeongui Line into a public greenway that runs for 6.3 kilometers from Mapo-gu to Yongsan-gu.On the 11th I visited the Naksan neighborhood which is known as the “Montmarte” area of Seoul. Climbing up to the park reminded me of walking around the hilly streets of Lisbon. The views from the old fortress wall in Naksan Park were beautiful!You could see the N Seoul Tower in the distance. After visiting the park I walked through the narrow streets of the Ihwa-dong Mural Village.It was truly lovely. After I walked through the village I found the Cheonggyecheon Stream. It is a 10.9 km public recreation space in downtown Seoul. I was previously buried under and elevated highway and is also part of an urban renewal project. The way that Seoul really cares about having nature spaces right in the city is very reminiscent of Tokyo. Cheonggyecheon Stream.Very peaceful. I finished the day by walking past Changgyeonggung Palace. Myeongjeongmun Gate at Changgyeonggung Palace.The details and bright colors that the buildings at the palaces are decorated with will never get old. Another section of the Gyeongui Line Forest Park. On the 13th Dave and I explored Deoksugung Palace together. The grounds of the palace were absolutely beautiful. I still cant get enough of the leaf colors. Junghwamun Gate.Junghwajeon Throne HallThe palace is right in the city. They had an exhibition going on called “Fragments of Ground, Blooming.” I love the reflection of the ceiling in the mirrored floor. Additional parts of the exhibition. More beauty around the grounds of Deoksugung Palace.We left just in time to see the changing of the guards. After the palace we checked out Seoul City Hall. Which was impressive. I finished the day with a walk to Bamseom Park to get a great view of the skyline.The next day we took the train across the river to the Gangnam neighborhood that is known for its vibrant atmosphere and K-culture experiences. It also happens to be what the South Korean artist Psy was singing about in his song “Gangnam Style” back in 2012. 🙂Gangnam Square. The main reason we went was to see one of the coolest libraries that I have ever been to! This is Starfield Library and it was truly a magical place!Seoul is definitely ready for Christmas! On the 15th we took our Viator tour to the DMZ. Our first stop was at the Korean peninsula Ecological Peace Tourism information center. The mountain in the background is in North Korea. The Peace Bell. The Mangbaedan Altar is a memorial for Korean families separated by the Korean War. The Statue of Peace or “Comfort Women” statue symbolizes the victims of sexual slavery by the Japanese military during WWII. This is a steam locomotive from the Gyeongui Line that was left behind during the Korean War. It was used to transport war supplies and was destroyed in a bombing during the war. A Lego replica of the JSA. “JSA stands for Joint Security Area, which is the most well-known section of the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) where North and South Korean soldiers stand face-to-face. This area, also known as Panmunjom or the “truce village,” is where inter-Korean meetings, negotiations, and a famous diplomatic encounter between U.S.”Crossing over into the DMZ. This is the former building of the Dora Observatory and one of the two things you’re allowed to take pictures of there. This is the second. The view of South Korea from the DMZ. Back in October visitors became prohibited from taking direct photos of North Korean territory or military installations from the viewing deck of the Dora Observatory. “These strict rules are for security and to prevent the use of images for propaganda purposes by North Korea.”Fortunately our tour guide shared some of his pictures with us that he took before the ban. The is the fence line of the DMZ. The DMZ “buffer zone” is 155 miles long and 2.5 miles wide. So we were still a little over a mile from the actual border with North Korea. Images of the DPRK. After the observatory we visited the Third Infiltration or Aggression Tunnel. The tunnel is one of four that were built by North Korea for a surprise invasion of South Korea. The Third tunnel was discovered in 1978 after a North Korean defector provided a tip. I made it down the ramp to the entry of the tunnel but was worried about getting claustrophobic in the cramped and crowded area so I let Dave explore inside while I explored outside. There are still over two million landmines in the DMZ.This is a recreation of the JSA.There is a lot of wildlife in the DMZ due to the lack of human interference for the past 70 years. It has become an accidental wildlife sanctuary. They have worked to make the area around the Third Tunnel peaceful. Statues of South Korean military police. Last Sunday was 60 degrees and sunny so we decided to visit Gyeongbokgung Palace. Apparently we weren’t the only ones with that idea. 😉 If you dress up in traditional attire you can get into the palace grounds for free. This was a very popular and instagrammable spot!One of the gates of Gyeongbokgung Palace.Geunjeongjeon Hall. The DETAIL!!!The pagoda I visited earlier in the week. The main throne room. The painting is called Inworobongdo, which means “painting of the Sun, Moon and Five Peaks” and symbolizes the king. We have seen it in other palaces as well because it was always placed behind the king’s royal throne during the Joseon Dynasty. “The Sun and moon together represent the harmony of yin and yang.”Golden dragon details on the ceiling of the throne room. Roofline decorations. Capturing the framing light. The in called Janggo which is storage for jars containing fermented pastes and sauces like soy sauce, soy bean pastes and chilly pastes. The pagoda again. Just trying to capture all the angles. Hyangwonjeon Pavillion on Hyangwonji pond with Bukhansan Mountain peak in the background. It was such a lovely day!Another image representing the king painted on a screen door. Beautiful fence details. Dave’s Korean BBQ birthday lunch. And dessert at Colline. A cute French cafe on the Hongdae pedestrian street. Namsan Park Botanical Garden. We climbed Namsan Mountain. Found the old city walls. It was a beautiful hike. We were rewarded for our efforts by some pretty incredible views. Saw the N Seoul TowerHanging locks on things is popular all over the world! The symbolic gesture of unbreakable love and commitment. Proving that love is universal. We didn’t go up in the tour but the view from the viewing platform was pretty spectacular too.The Lifelong Learning Center “Maporium” where I’m working on this post. 🙂
Ever since we’ve been in Japan I keep thinking of the line from the play Rent that goes, “today for you, tomorrow for me.” I’ve gotten a little better with the time change and it still takes some brain power to calculate. When I’m making plans to chat with someone in the States I’m always like, “your Wednesday my Thursday,” or insert whatever day we’re talking about. Now that the Midwest has had Daylight Savings Time we are 15 hours difference. Ahead or behind I still haven’t gotten that straight. I guess it just isn’t the most important thing as long as we connect.
We are in our seventh week in Japan and it has been interesting to see how, all the places we’ve been, are so different. We added Osaka to our list, when we were initially make our plans for Japan, because it came recommended. We had heard that it is more laid back and has an incredible food scene. Unfortunately it is my least favorite of the places we’ve been and I know it 100% has to do with the neighborhood we’re staying in. The neighborhood is called Dontonbori and is basically like the Shibuya of Tokyo. Very busy, crowded and loud. Our apartment is very nice, clean and comfortable. Dave appreciates that he is able to stand upright and has been hitting his head less. He also has a 24 hour co-working place that he can go to, for the first time on this leg of the adventure, that is close by. And, I basically haven’t slept in a week because of the noise. Yes I have tried ear plugs and noise canceling ear buds with sleep sounds at full volume and nothing helps. Starting anywhere between 7pm and Midnight each night, there are what sounds like drag races, that last all night long through early morning. Dave has done some research on what is going on and discovered that it is part of The Kanjozoku culture that is centered on defiance. I was just surprised that none of the reviews, that we rely heavily upon when choosing our Air BnBs, mentioned the noise. Nor did the host include it in the description, when she had to know about it because there is a giant jar of ear plugs in the apartment. Oh well, lesson learned.
After the previous five weeks of peace and quiet Osaka has been bumming me out, so I went into my tool kit that I’ve been adding to over the past two years of travel, and booked a solo trip to Kobe for two nights. I’m grateful to have this chance to escape and hopefully get some sleep. I’m also grateful to my friends who recommended it, especially because of its proximity to Osaka. My hotel room is very nice and comfortable, not sound proof as advertised, but a LOT quieter than Osaka! The first day I visited Kobe Nunobiki Herb Gardens & Ropeway and it was spectacular! The sun was shining and some of the leaves are starting to turn. I haven’t had to wear a jacket since January, minus Patagonia, so I’ve been enjoying a little cooler weather. I took the gondola up and back and was able to see Nunobiki Falls and the dam from above. They have indoor spaces there that are so beautiful and fragrant it was absolute heaven for the olfactory. I also booked a Kobe beef course tasting for lunch that I’m excited to try and am going to visit the harbor. Maybe I’ll do a sake tasting at a brewery. It should be a great time!
We leave for three weeks in Seoul on the 7th and I can’t wait to see all that Korea has to offer. I’m praying it will be more quiet and am grateful for the learning that every part of this adventure provides. Even though we are “living the dream,” life is still lifing. Sending you love wherever you are! ❤️
Our second week in Kyoto there was still much to see. This is Yasaka Pagoda. It is at Hokan-ko Temple which is one of the oldest in Kyoto dating back to the 6th century. Ryozen Kannon. A war memorial built in 1955 to honor those who died in the Pacific War. It includes tablets for the two million Japanese that died in WWII. A Kannon is the Buddhist goddess of mercy. Power Spot. “There’s a saying, one’s wish comes true by circling around the wishing ball three times with the right hand on it making the wish.” Of course I did it!Wondering around the streets of the Higashiyama district near the Hokan-ji Temple. There are many traditional wooden buildings on the narrow streets and very few cars. Sanmon Gate of Chion-in Temple. It was built in 1621 and is one of the largest wooden gates in Japan.The torii gate of the Heian-jingu Shrine. This is one of the largest torii gates in Japan. Heian-jingu Shrine.Restaurant, Saryo Tesshin. I treated myself to one “fancy” meal that came highly recommended for their soba noodles. I got mine with tofu and it was delicious!On October 20th we went to Uji to see Byōdō-in Temple. A UNESCO World Heritage Site built in 1053 during the Heian period. It was truly a sight to behold! And, you know how I love a good reflection shot. 😉Pond buddies. I was obsessed with the phoenixes on the roof of Phoenix Hall. The way that they trellis their wisteria is impressive. Statues on the fountain near Choho-ji Temple. There were swans there too. The Choho-ji Temple is also called “Rokkakudo” which means hexagonal hall. This temple is considered the birthplace of ikebana, the Japanese art of flower arrangement. I was in this area to visit the ikebana museum. You couldn’t take pictures inside the museum but it was really cool to learn more about the history of ikebana. It’s so beautiful!I went to Sanjo Chasuian for a tea ceremony experience while in Kyoto. The tiny door behind our host is historically how you enter the tea room. No, Japanese people weren’t that short, the door is that size so you had to crawl into the room on your knees. This makes it so that everyone who enters is equal. The foundation of the tea ceremony. I tried some traditional Japanese confection called wagashi, specifically namagashi. It is filled with semi-sweet red bean paste. It was ok. 🙂I had a good time learning about the history of the tea ceremony and how to make matcha. Finally had udon noodles which you can only get a lunch time. Yummy!Beautiful orchids outside of a cafe near our apartment. An example of ikebana. The day before we left for Osaka we visited three more UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The first was Ninna-ji Temple. Ninna-ji is the head temple of the Omuro school of the Shingon Sect of Buddhism. It was first founded in AD 888 by Emperor Uda. This is the palace gardens. You can see the five story pagoda, or Gojunato, in the background. The interior of Ninna-ji Temple.The bell tower. I love how the leaves almost blend in with the color of the tower. Golden lotus flower. Amazing roof decorations. The five story pagoda, or Gojunato.Kongokebosatsu-zo (Vajrapuṣpa Bodhisattva) one of the thirty-three manifestations of Kannon. I loved the gold accents in the flowers. The second UNESCO World Heritage site we visited that day was Ryōan-ji Temple. It belongs to the Myōshin-ji school of the Rinzai branch of Zen Buddhism.I was blown away by the screen art inside the temple. The rock garden at Ryōan-ji Temple. It was a very beautiful and peaceful place. The third site of the day and the final temple of our visit to Kyoto was Kinkaku-ji Temple. Officially named Rokuon-ji, it is a Zen Buddhist temple.Another beautiful garden. I love how the gold pops.Nidec Kyoto Tower. Until next time Kyoto. We arrived in Osaka on October 24th. We somehow found and Aussie bar where we could watch the second half of the Timberwolves game and then went next store to get a Wisconsin grilled cheese. WHAT?! Where are we??It did not disappoint!After that we explored our neighborhood of Dontonbori. Osaka was the host of the World Expo. It went until October 13th. Dontonbori is a vibrant entertainment district that uses giant statues as advertisement for the many restaurants in the area. We went to the Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts because we heard they had the statue of Atlas from Italy’s part of the World Expo. We didn’t realize you had to purchase advanced tickets and they were already sold out for the rest of our stay. We’re still going to say we saw it! ?More sights around the Dontonbori canal and views from the Ebisu bridge. Sunset on the Dontonbori Canal. Visiting Osaka Castle. Osaka Castle. Golden adornments. Views from the top of Osaka Castle. It was a beautiful day!We had a lot of fun visiting the Nintendo store in Osaka. This past weekend we visited Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan.We were able to see a lot of amazing things. Otters are SO cute!This is a male Mandarin duck. I love being able to see their feet under the water. Gentoo penguins are the third-largest penguin species. I just love love. The Whale Sharks were majestic. I had never seen these Spotted Garden Eels before and I was kind of obsessed. The striped one reminds me of Elmo’s worm Slimey. Pacific White-Sided Dolphin. We saw a ton of these when we went whale watching in Maine. Seal bobber. 😉After the aquarium we walked around the Amerikamura neighborhood of Osaka and saw this amazingness! #goalsWe saw the Art Deco exhibit at Nakanoshima Museum of Art, Osaka (NAKKA).This is the “Giant Torayan” by artist Kenji Yanobe.“Ship’s Cat” also by Kenji Yanobe. Myaku-Myaku was the official mascot for the Expo 2025.We discovered “R” RIVERSIDE GRILL & BEER GARDEN exploring the area around the art museum. Ikuta-jinja Shrine. Kobe, Japan. This shrine is “possible among the oldest shrines in the country. With a history of about 1,800 years.”Riding the gondola up to Kobe Nunobiki Herb Gardens. Nunobiki Waterfalls.Kobe Nunobiki Herb Gardens.The Glass House and The Veranda.The view from inside of the Glass House.The view from the Veranda. Bathroom inspo. I wish you could smell how amazing it smelled in here. Dream decor. Exploring around my neighborhood of Sannomiya in Kobe.
We have had a busy and wonderful two and half weeks since I last wrote. There is just so much amazingness that Japan has to offer. We want to see and do it all, which we know is impossible. The biggest thing that has stood out to us as we’ve continued to be immersed in all things Japan is the expression of faith that exists in all things from the copious amounts of temples and shrines to the interactions with the people. We learned that the most important thing for people who follow the Buddhist faith is to be a good person and you can feel that everywhere you go.
During our last week and a half in Tokyo Dave and I went to the incredible miniature museum Small Worlds on the 1st. Everything was super cute and tiny. We also were able to experience Oktoberfest at Tokyo Skytree and hear some live music. They even did their own version of the cheers that is repeated at all Oktoberfest celebrations I’ve ever been to. We revisited “Tech Heaven”, I got to spend some more time in the beautiful Gyoen National Garden and saw the incredible cat billboard that looks 3D and Godzilla street.
On the 8th I went on my solo day trip to Mount Fiji which turned out to be the perfect day. We started in Kamakura and visited the Great Buddha of Kotoku-in. It is the largest Buddha in Japan not inside a temple. It began inside one but it kept on being destroyed by different natural disasters. They ultimately decided to not reconstruct the structure in 1498. The next stop was Hakone where we took a short boat cruise on Lake Ashi and got our first clear views of Mount Fuji and the Heiwa no Torii (Gate of Peace) of the Hakone Shrine that is on the lake. Our third stop was at the cute village of Oshino Hakkai where they have hot springs and natural fountains where you can fill your water bottles with water from Mount Fuji, which they say is like drinking from the fountain of youth. They day ended at Lake Kawaguchi which provided the best view of the mountain. I’m so thankful that it was a clear sunny day. Even though the clouds moved in a little bit at the end of it we were still able to get several views of the majestic mountain. It was truly a special day and one hundred percent worth it!
We also got to visit TeamLab Planets which was a magical playground for all the senses. The immersive experience incorporated elements of light, water, forests and flowers. It was incredible. On our last day in Tokyo we were walking to the Asakusa neighborhood for lunch and met a group of women welcoming people into their tiny Buddhist temple. They were so warm and friendly it was impossible to say no so we went in and watched a ten minute video about Buddhism in English. They taught us that the primary goal for Buddhism is to be a good person and not succumb “the three poisons” or “three kleshas” known as ignorance, greed and hatred which are seen as the fundamental mental states that cause suffering and keep people trapped in the cycle of suffering, known as samsara. They were so friendly and excited to learn that we were from the United States. They loved how tall Dave is and his long hair. Several hours later when we were walking back they were still standing outside and waved greetings to us from across the street. What a random and wonderful interaction that was.
Even though I’ve continued having weekly chats with friends and family I feel like I’m out of practice communication wise. I feel like I’m starting to live with Japanese on the brain. Even though I really don’t know how to say very much, I find myself constantly thinking about it and trying to learn about how to communicate better. Having friends from the US in Tokyo for part of the time was a huge gift! It has been seven weeks since we left the states and I miss the face to face interaction and ease of connections that being around English speakers brings. We had the best day together on the 2nd and I had to pinch myself the entire day that we were in Japan! I met them in the morning at Meiji-Jingu, one of Shinto shrines in the beautiful Yoyogi Park. After the shrine we went and hung out around the Takeshita Harajuku neighborhood. We spent the rest of the day shopping, which I haven’t really done since we began this adventure, and drinking cheap beers from the 7-Eleven. We ended the day taking in the views from the rooftop of the Tokyu Plaza Harajuku “Harakado”. My cheeks were sore by the end from smiling and laughing the entire day. I was able to see them a couple other times during their time in Tokyo and my friend and I were even able to have a lovely dinner together at an adorable pizza place called Aoi Napoli. I was very grateful for the time and memories that I’m sure we’ll never forget.
After three amazing weeks in Tokyo I was really sad to leave. I already can’t wait to go back. We arrived in Kyoto on the 11th and have taken full advantage of Dave having the week off. It has been so fun having more than a few daytime hours with him. Kyoto is very different from Tokyo mainly for its traditional feel. For starters it is quite a bit smaller than Tokyo with “only” 1.4 to 1.5 million people. It has over 1,600 Buddhist temples and over 400 Shinto Shrines. They are EVERYWHERE! We have even seen two churches with crosses, the first of our time in Japan. Another cool thing is that in the Kyoto area there are 17 different UNESCO World Heritage Sites! Our first night in town we went to the Hyatt Regency for a cocktail and were able to see a traditional Maiko performance. A maiko “is an apprentice geisha, a young traditional Japanese female entertainer who performs songs, dances, and plays the shamisen.” What a special way to kick off the week! We even met a Japanese woman who spent two months in Saint Paul, Minnesota back in 1989 studying English. She stayed not to far from our house! She lives in Osaka now so we exchanged information and may reach out to her when we go there on the 25th. Such a small world!
This week we have seen several of the temples, shrines and castles. One day we went to Nara and saw the tallest Buddha in Japan housed in the Tōdai-ji Temple. “This Ushiku Daibutsu in Ibaraki Prefecture, standing at 120 meters (390 ft) tall, including its base and lotus platform.” We also of course enjoyed seeing the many sacred deer. SO CUTE!!!!
On Tuesday, the 14th, we visited Fushimi Inari Taisha, a major Shinto shrine famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates. During our visit we climbed to the top of Mount Inari where we took in the view over the city. On the way there we had yet another random, although is anything really random, interaction with a woman on the street. She stopped us and asked if she could pray for blessings of happiness over us for one minute. Of course we agreed. After the interaction with the women at the Buddhist temple in Tokyo and then this kindness, it left us wondering if we seem like friendly welcoming people who others are drawn to? Or why, when no where else in the world it has happened, interactions like this, happened twice in the past two weeks. Is it us or is it Japan? Whatever energy we’re putting out into the universe, if people are drawn to us in such positive ways, we’re here for it.
After Fushimi Inari Taisha we went to the Sanjūsangen-dō Temple and it was definitely worth the visit! “The temple built by the famous warlord Taira no Kiyomori for Emperor Go-Shirakawa in 1164. It is primarily famous for its 1,001 statues of Kannon, the goddess of compassion, in her thousand-armed incarnation, lined up along the entire length of the thirty-three ken (unit of measurement) hall from which the temple gets its moniker.” It was an impressive sight to see.
Another day we got up early and took the train to Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. It was beautiful and I’m so glad that we went early because by the time we left it was packed with people. The same day we visited the Imperial Palace of Kyoto in the rain. On Friday we went to Yogen-in Temple which actually has a pretty dark history. To make the ceiling of this temple they used the floorboards of the “remains of Fushimi Castle where 380 Tokugawa (Samurai) soldiers committed suicide in 1600 during the Battle of Fushimi Castle.” You could see the outlines of bodies, faces, hands and feet on the ceiling. Yikes! Yesterday we went to Nijō-jo Castle which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We have one more week in Kyoto before we head to Osaka for two weeks. We hope to visit some of the other World Heritage sites. We think the Nintendo Museum in Uji might be fun to see and if we have another day with nice weather I’d like to visit Biwako Omi-Maiko Nakahama Beach that my friend recommended. I am absolutely in love with Japan and am in awe of the quiet peaceful beauty it’s culture exudes. I am eternally grateful for the opportunity to experience it.
Sending you love and wishing you peace and happiness wherever you are!
Love, Alison
Here is my attempt to narrow down all the pictures I took at the Small Worlds miniature museum. It was very difficult. Bare with me as I share the adorableness. 🙂Who wouldn’t want to eat pastries with these adorable otters?!Izakaya dioramaMusic at Skytree Oktoberfest.As you know I couldn’t get enough of the view of the Skytree in Tokyo. Sake barrels at Meiji-Jingu Shrine in Tokyo.One of the entrance gates to Meiji-Jingu Shrine from Yoyogi Park. Meiji-Jingu Shrine.Takeshita Street. The sign changed since the last time I visited which is fun. Tokyu Plaza Harajuku “Harakado”First Supermoon in Tokyo. Revisiting Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden.Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden.3D cat Cross Shinjuku Space.Godzilla Road. Where’s Godzilla?Peekaboo. Carnitas taco rice with a fluffy egg on top from Ramos Takadanobaba. Insert drool face here. 🙂The Great Buddha of Kotoku-in Temple. Kamakura, Japan. Pirate ship on Lake Ashi in Hakone Japan. The first view on Mount Fuji from Lake Ashi. The Heiwa no Torii (Gate of Peace) of the Hakone Shrine. Lake Ashi. Mount Fuji above the Japanese Garden in Oshino Hakkai. The traditional village of Oshino Hakkai.Japanese Garden in Oshino Hakkai.Mount Fuji from Lake Kawaguchi. Wagashi, or Japanese confectionery. I had the same struggle narrowing down photos from TeamLab Planets as I did with Small Worlds! Here is the light room. This is the water room at TeamLab Planets. We were standing in water about as deep as mid-calf. The coy are being projected on the water. It was VERY cool! The whole place was. This room was filled top to bottom with inflated multi-colored balloons. Where’d Alison go?! 🙂The beginning of the Athletics Forest rooms. All the “balls” that you see in this photo are squishy and the goal is the cross the floor following the same color. Sculptures in the garden area of TeamLab Planets.Orchids can grow without soil. This room is filled with orchids hanging from the celling that move up and down. We had these beauties at our wedding. We first saw them when we were in China back in 2007.The way they have mirrors all over the walls, floors and ceilings in several of the rooms really creates a dramatic effect and this room smelled amazing too! Our last day in Tokyo brought a lot of fun and some heart felt revisits. This was our favorite pizza place in Asakusa. Can you tell why?Sadly this adorable Monchhichi was too big for my luggage! A beautiful mural in Asakusa on the right. Not sure what is being advertised on the left. An art instillation of the 12 animals of the Japanese zodiac. The views from Asahi Sky Room along the Sumida River. The view of Sensō-ji Temple in Asakusa from Asahi Sky Room.I found this adorable liquor museum in the subway. The bartender introduced me to this deliciously smooth Japanese whisky.Staying up past 7pm has its benefits. 🙂The Golden Flame on top of the Asahi brewery represents the “burning heart of Asahi beer” and their passion for brewing. Until next time Tokyo. Our adorable Air BnB in Kyoto. Very traditional and a lot of places where poor Dave hits his head. Takio Shrine. One of the many Shinto shrines on our street. Maiko performance at the Hyatt Regency in Kyoto. Saiseki-dori Street is kind of like the Golden Gai area in Tokyo. Super cute little street with tons of quaint bars and restaurants.These are the fluffy pancakes at Kacto which is the sister restaurant of Ivy Place. I remembered this time to take a picture of them before they were gone. 🙂This is the view of the Buddah at Ryōzen Kannon Temple from Kacto Restaurant. Nishiki Tenmangū Shrine in Nishiki Market. Nishiki Market provides all the culinary amazingness that Japan. I haven’t been brave enough but I’m determined to try the mini octopus with a quail egg inside before I leave. I’m not often on Reddit but I was sent an article about this place before we arrived in Japan and because I couldn’t find the name of it I wasn’t sure where it was located. We stumbled upon it while exploring Nishiki Market and were able to taste their tacos this past Thursday night and my goodness they were delicious. The place is called Uemon Taqueria and I highly recommend it if you’re ever in Kyoto. My love for the decorations on the roofs of the temples are the new murals for me. I’m obsessed. Japan takes their beer very seriously. This was a first for me. If you aren’t sure what is happening I didn’t either. This bag over my head protects the clothes from make-up even though I’m not wearing any. Just doing my best to be respectful of the culture. Yasaka Shrine also known as Gion-san is in the Gion district of Kyoto. Ōtani Sobyō Temple.Chōraku-ji Temple.The view from Chōraku-ji Temple.Dai-un-in Temple. Just to give you an idea of all the Temples and Shrines around Kyoto. I thought of Charlie Berens when I saw this. “Watch out for deer!” Nara, Japan. The Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall) Of Tōdai-ji Temple in Nara. The Great Buddha. Excuse me is there anything in there for me? Hanging lanterns at Kasuga Taisha, a Shinto shrine in Nara. These lanterns are “a symbol of light overcoming ignorance, represent wishes for prosperity and safety, and serve as a connection to the shrine’s history through the thousands of donated lanterns.”I just love how nature takes over. And I couldn’t get enough of the sacred deer in Nara. I learned that the sounds they make remind me of a door hinge that needs to be oiled. I don’t think I’ve ever heard that before. Tofuku-ji Temple. Our neighborhood namesake. More rooftop decor. Fushimi Inari Shrine has the famous Senbon Torii (Thousand Torii Gates). I got very lucky with this picture. It was a very crowded day!The view from Mount Inari. These adorable foxes are all over the Fushimi Inari Shrine. “The foxes at Fushimi Inari are messengers of Inari Okami, the Shinto god of rice, harvests, business, and prosperity. These fox statues, called kitsune or Byakko-san (white fox), serve as divine messengers, guarding the shrine and carrying symbolic objects like a key, rice stalk, or a jewel, each representing a specific blessing. They are also seen as warding off evil and protecting the sacred area, replacing the traditional lion-dog guardians found at other Shinto shrines.”We made it to the top!Buying sake on our street. The outside of Sanjūsangendō Temple. Like many of the temples and castles in Kyoto you can’t take pictures inside. Here is an image of the 1000 Kannons at Sanjūsangendō Temple from Google. Another amazing culinary experience that I forgot to take a picture of. This amazing mural was taken at Taco Scratch in the Shimogyo Ward of Kyoto.The outside of the Kyoto National Museum. We weren’t allowed to take pictures inside but we saw the beautiful exhibition entitled Song and Yuan Buddhist Painting Early Chinese Masterpieces.Nidec Kyoto TowerArashiyama Bamboo Forest.The view of the Katsura River from the overlook at Arashiyama Bamboo Forest.Boats along the Katsura river with the Togetsukyo Bridge in the background. These tanuki statues of a Japanese racoon dog are considered a good luck charm and are all over Japan primarily outside of shops and restaurants. ThisKiho-zan Heijo-in temple has a monument that is dedicated to Kukai, also known as Kobo-Daishihad. There are tons of little cairns all over the outside of this temple. Kukai was a prominent Buddhist monk who founded the Shingon school of Buddhism in the 9th century. The view of the Kyoto Imperial Palace from the Imperial gardens. The Gonaitei Garden at the Imperial Palace was incredibly beautiful even in the rain. The delicious tacos from Uemon Taqueria near Nishiki Market. Waiting in line for my first taste of fried octopus balls on Saiseki-dori Street. My goodness they were delicious!This cute diorama was outside of Gin Bar Kairos on Saiseki-dori Street. They definitely made delicious drinks. Dave had heard a lot of the smaller bars in Japan only cater to local people. We have found the key is to be quite and respectful. We saw several groups of loud people get turned away while we were enjoying our drinks. More cuteness on Saiseki-dori Street. Most bars don’t open until between 5pm and 7pm, which is typically when Dave is sleeping, so it was fun to enjoy some of the nightlife together during Dave’s week off. Yogen-in Temple. You weren’t allowed to take pictures inside. Understandably so. This is the temple with the ceiling made from the Fushimi Castle. The walls and tower of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Nijo-jo Castle.The beautiful main gate of the Nijo-jo Castle.We couldn’t take pictures of the inside and I couldn’t get enough of the details on the outside. Hanging bells. Another beautiful garden at Nijo-jo Castle.The view from the base of the keep tower. We were able to take pictures inside Painting Gallery. These are of the of some of the painted screens that are similar to the ones we weren’t able to take pictures of inside the castle. One of the beautiful door pulls on the screen. My goodness we’ve seen and done so much!
We have been in Tokyo since the 20th and the thing that I have noticed more than anything is how quiet it is. Quiet in this case is an all-encompassing word. I’ve felt peace. I feel like my shoulders have come out of my ears and that I have been able to relax in a way that I haven’t been able to fully in a while. It definitely has helped that everything that has been going on with our family has cleared. Praise God.
Even though Tokyo has 37-41 million people it doesn’t feel that way. I did a little research about Japanese architecture and I learned that it prioritizes a deep connection to nature and a desire to bring the sense of peace that you feel when you are in nature into even the smallest spaces. That must have something to do with the way that I have been feeling as well. In the time that we’ve been here, here are some things that I have noticed. Even when you’re in a super crowded tourist area there isn’t any pushing or shoving or yelling. When you’re in a packed train everyone understands that that is the way it is. I haven’t heard a single car horn. They don’t allow smoking on the street which is amazing. No one listens to a video or music on full volume, on their phone in public, without ear bud. Nor do they have a conversation on speaker phone. You can leave your computer, cellphone, purse, anything on a table and get up and use the bathroom anywhere and no one will touch it! I have felt safe walking anywhere and everywhere in the city by myself day or night. You can drink tap water. The public toilets are free and pristine. There is always toilet paper available and you can flush it. No one crosses the street unless there is a green walking person showing. There aren’t any garbage cans around so we carry a plastic bag with us and bring it home to dispose of. I thought this was because they make the streets look dirty but when I looked it up this is what Google said “Japan lacks public garbage cans due to heightened safety concerns after the 1995 Aum Shinrikyo subway sarin gas attack, a cultural norm of taking trash home.” The food is delicious. Also, things are less expensive than in the United States. It is very hard for me to not want to buy everything and Dave is glad I don’t have the space.? There are SO many things that I haven’t experienced in other places I have traveled and it is awesome to have them all in one place.
For those of you who might be nervous about visiting Japan because of the language barrier, the best advice I can give is that making an effort goes a long way. Much like in other countries where you don’t speak the language. 🙂 Google translate works great and when in doubt a smile and a bow goes a long way. I am sure that I have made many mistakes and I’m trying to take advantage of the touchpoints/ small interactions whenever possible. I have found that everyone is willing to help when you ask for it. I don’t imagine that I will make any lifelong friends while I’m here, although you never know.
Even though it has only been a little over a week since we arrived we’ve already seen and done so much. On day one we booked our first “Air BnB experience” and took a walking tour of the Senso-ji, also called Asakusa Kannon. It is the oldest temple in Tokyo and opened in 645 AD (CE). It was such a great way to begin our three weeks here. The temple is only about a 20 min walk from our Air BnB and is a bustling area with tons of culture and history. See: a mixture of old and new. Our guide taught us so much on the tour that has helped us prepare for the rest of our time in Japan and begin to understand more about it’s culture. She told us about the two major religions in Japan, Shinto and Buddhism and how they differ. She explained that Shintoism focuses more on this world and daily life events like births and marriages. Buddhism is concerned with death, the afterlife and rebirth. It is sometimes said that one “lives by Shinto and dies by Buddhism.” She told us the stories about how Buddah came to Japan and explained the purification process that you go through before you enter a temple; First, scoop up water in a ladle with your right hand and pour water over your left hand. Next, hold the ladle with your left hand and pour water over your right hand. Finally, pour some water from the ladle into your left hand, rinse out your mouth, and spit the water out beside the fountain. This was all new learning for us and I feel it will be priceless as we move through the rest of our time in Japan and visit many more temples. After our tour we discovered our new favorite pizza place called Savoy. Woodfired yumminess that we have already had three times!
One day last week we walked through Ueno Park to the Okachimachi neighborhood where there are tons of affordable and diverse shops and restaurants. That is where we discovered the restaurant Ramen Kamo to Negi. There was a line of people waiting to eat at 11am. You purchase your food from a machine outside the restaurant where you order from the small assortment of pictures, then you get a ticket and sit on one of the stools until someone comes and brings you inside to your table. The sign outside the restaurant touted that their duck broth is only made with duck, green onions, and water, and it was the richest, most delicious duck soup I’ve ever eaten. I’m drooling just thinking about it. In that same neighborhood we found a toy store that was seven floors filled with every toy you can imagine and many of the coin machines that you can find all over the city. As I mentioned, it has been very challenging not to buy all the things! Especially since there’s so much cuteness.
Another day we took the train to the Daikanyamacho neighborhood which has kind of a Brooklynlike feel. The quiet neighborhood has several higher-end shops, bookstores and restaurants. Our friends who have been to Tokyo before recommended the restaurant Ivy Place and it did not disappoint. We were able to squeeze in for breakfast even though we didn’t have a reservation and the food was delicious. I had an omelet and Dave had pancakes that were lighter than air. Of course we ate it up before I remembered to take a picture. After breakfast, we walked around and found Spring Valley Brewery where we popped in for a pint. Dave, as I mentioned, is working Central Standard hours and tries to go to bed around 1pm so he headed back at that point and I decided to make my way to Shibuya to see the famous Shibuya Scramble Crossing. I did a little research, for those of you who haven’t heard of it, to give you an idea of how busy this crossing is. “Shibuya Crossing sees approximately 2 million to over 2.4 million pedestrians daily, with up to 3,000 people crossing at once when the lights change. This makes it the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing.” (Google) Dave had told me about this building there where you can see the crossing for free so I made my way to Shibuya Hikarie’s 11th-floor Sky Lobby and took in the sight from a safe distance away. I finished my day on Takeshita Street, which is famous as the iconic, youthful heart of Harajuku in Tokyo. It was the Autumnal Equinox holiday and the pedestrian street was packed. It felt very reminiscent of the State Fair but with much narrower streets. I only made it a couple blocks before I had to make my way home, it was just too crowded. I was exhausted after the very full and wonderful day.
On the 24th I decided to take a walk along the Kanda River, which was also recommended to me by a friend. The pedestrian street along the river is the embodiment of peace and tranquility. There are many temples and parks all along the way. It also provided some much needed respite from the heat because it has been HOT! Upper 80s most days, sunny and SO humid! I continued down the river and made my way toward Black Duck Coffee in Shinjuku because it came highly recommended by several people. Unfortunately Google was wrong this time and it was closed. Maybe I’ll make it back at some point before we leave because I have found that delicious coffee is something Tokyo is very good at. Since it was closed, I did what you do in situations like that and I pivoted. I had been wanting to go to visit the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden which is a huge beautiful park in Tokyo where the Naitō family lived in the Edo, the former name for Tokyo, period. You’ll hear more about the Edo period when I tell you about our visit to the Samurai and Ninja Museum. Since the garden is in the Shinjuku neighborhood I told Dave I would walk by the Golden Gai district that he has been wanting to visit. Golden Gai is a festive, popular city district famed for its narrow, winding alleys & numerous snug taverns. It is more popular at night but I did find one wee tavern called Bambi open and popped in for an Asahi (beer) and a Suntory (whiskey). I practiced a little Japanese with the woman who worked there before some fellow travelers joined and then made my way to the park. That will probably be my only visit to Golden Gai, since I haven’t been able to stay up much past 7pm, and I’m glad I checked it out.
Last Thursday we went up the Tokyo Skytree, which is only a five minute walk from our apartment, and is visible from our front door. It was a pretty clear day and we even got a peep of Mount Fuji! The Skytree is the “tallest tower in the world” at 2,080 feet. We went all the way to the top and it was worth it. What a view!
On Friday we took the train to Akihabara, which is known as Electric Town, and Dave was in tech heaven. We spent a couple hours in a store called Yodobashi Akiba which has nine floors of amazingness and had the best time. Dave definitely made a mental wishlist and we had fun buying stuffed capybaras out of one of the several coin machines. I even bought myself a mini Monchhichi. I don’t know if you know what that is but my sisters and I had these adorable little dolls when we were kids. They could suck their thumbs and we thought it was the coolest thing. My tote is definitely covered in flare after that visit and I’m not sad about it! Dave went home after that and I decided to walk back over to Ueno Park and visit the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum. It was a cool space and I definitely think there was a language barrier that prevented me from seeing any of the galleries other than the Van Gogh exhibit. It’s all good though and is part of the adventure.
This past weekend continued with more joy inducing fun. Saturday we began our day at the Samurai and Ninja Museum which was awesome. We learned about the history of the Samurai and our guide told us about the Edo period which was a period of over 200 years, 1603-1868, where the borders of Japan were closed to prevent foreign influence. Edo was the name of this area before it was changed to Tokyo in 1868. One thing I didn’t know about Japan before visiting is that they drive on the left side of the road. We were curious to learn why that was. We were told at the museum that the tradition dates back to the time of the Samurai. They carried their sword, called the katana, on their left hand side. When they would walk down the street it would’ve been disrespectful if their swords came in contact with other Samurai’s swords or people so they walked on the left hand side to avoid that. The people followed suit out of respect and the tradition never changed. We also got to see some of the traditional Samurai attire and we even had a Ninja throwing star (called shuriken) competition at the end of the tour. This was surprisingly hard for me but Dave did great. I think his experience playing darts helped. 😉 It was a great way to start the day.
After the museum we had lunch at Savoy before we went to our first Sake tasting at WASAKE Sake Experience. Before going to the tasting we knew little to nothing about sake. I had tried it in the states and to be honest didn’t really care for it. We happened to be the only ones who booked the 1pm experience so we were able to ask our amazing guide Bo all of the questions we had. We tried what Bo called the “Ferrari of Sakes” , a Seven Junmai Daiginjo sake that is handmade and takes around five months to make from start to finish. Typically sake takes two to three months to make. They begin the process by polishing the rice down to 40% of its original size before they enter the brewing and maturation process. We also learned that no sake should be more than 20% ABV. I think we can both safely say that we are fans of sake now.
We finished off our weekend on Sunday with a visit to the capybara cafe in our neighborhood called Cafe Capyba. My friend had told me about how these cafes existed before we came to Tokyo and I honestly had no clue what we were getting into. I didn’t realize that you needed to make reservations in advance so when we arrived they said they were fully booked for the day and the rest of the time we are in Tokyo! I went online to visit their reservation site anyway and noticed they had a spot for two people in about 20 minutes and we were able to visit after all! Capybaras are actually native to South America and we saw some walking along the road when we were in Brazil. They are so cute and sweet and being able to pet them and feed them carrots was beyond! What a special experience.
Today we visited the Gardens at the Imperial Palace. We again didn’t realize you had to make reservations for the tour online in advance and the same day tickets were sold out only 30 minutes after opening. I’m glad we were able to still visit the beautiful gardens and learn more about the history of the palace. If we have time we may go back for a tour. After we had lunch at a delicious food truck called Viva la Vida in the adorable Marunouchi pedestrian park I continued on to get my first view of the Tokyo Tower. I found that the tower is located near the Zojoji Temple that was also on my list and it was a beautiful way to end the day.
The next couple weeks should be a little more relaxed I think. We’re going to go visit the Small Worlds miniature museum tomorrow which we’re really excited about. This is the website if you want to check it out. It looks amazing! (https://smallworlds.jp/en/) We actually have a friend of a friend that is coming to Tokyo for the week as well so we’re hoping to meet up with them at some point which would be fun. We learned that there are several Oktoberfest celebrations happening around town so we hope to experience how the Japanese celebrate that at some point. Another friend told me about this day trip she took through Viator to get a closer look of Mount Fuji, sail on Lake Ashi and see the Great Buddha of Kamakura and I thought that sounded like a solo adventure I’d like to do so I booked that today for the 8th. Fingers crossed there is good weather that day so I can get a good view of the mountain. Finally on the 9th we have tickets to TeamLab Planets which is an immersive experience that I have heard is one not to miss. ( https://www.teamlab.art/e/planets/) There are so many amazing things to see and do here and I’m grateful that we have three weeks to do it in a relaxed way. And, I know it is ok to save things for next time.
I hope that this finds you well wherever you are! I’m always thinking of you and sending you a universe of love!
Love, Alison
Tokyo SkytreeHozomon Gate or “Treasure House Gate”. Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa. Our guide from “Local Guide Stars” telling us about how Buddha arrived in Japan. The bottom of the gigantic lantern at Hozomon Gate. Touching the dragon’s ball is supposed to bring good luck. Five-Storied Pagoda. Asakusa. After the tour we walked through one of the many markets in the area. There are several shops where you can rent a kimono for the day. And we sampled some delicious bread.The next morning, on our way to Ueno park, we were able to get a better picture of the Senso-ji Temple without so many people around it. Students walking along the Reflection Pool in Ueno Park on their way to visit the Tokyo National Museum. They let nature run its course. This is Shinobazu Pond. Ueno Park. Shinobazunoike Bentendo Temple is located on a small island within the pond. Okachimachi neighborhood.Ramen Kamo to Negi.Duck soup with soba noodles. Are you drooling yet? I added the soft boiled duck egg. How bout now? 😉Just a few of the millions of coin machines that can be found around Tokyo. Monchhichi cuteness at the toy store of my dreams! You can’t visit Tokyo without going to a Hello Kitty store!One of the entrances to the Senso-ji Temple area with one of the many rickshaw runners you can hire. Exploring around Asakusa in the evening. Kaminarimon or Thunder Gate with the gigantic lantern illuminated. The view of the Tokyo Skytree at night from across the river from our neighborhood of Sumida. Ivy Place (obviously). Daikanyamacho neighborhood.Can you guess what this one is of? 😉Shibuya Scramble Crossing from Shibuya Hikarie’s 11th-floor Sky Lobby.The entrance to Takeshita. The pedestrian street and Harajuku Heaven. The Midwest representing at our local beer bar EVOLVE. Walking along the Kanda River. Golden Gai District. Shinjuku. Bambi. The wee tavern in Golden Gai. The view of the NTT Docomo Yoyogi Building from Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden.Kyu-Goryo-Tei, also known as the Taiwan Pavillion. Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden.The stuffies are ready to welcome us. 🙂Just a little glimpse of Mount Fuji from the Tokyo Skytree. Views above Tokyo. The view from the top down through the glass floor. The view of the Skytree through the window at my local library. Hikifune Library. I think you’re going to see a lot of this tower much like when we were in Santiago. Tech Heaven. Akihabara neighborhood. “Electric Town”Can you feel the joy through our smiles? Tote of joy!Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum. Ueno Park.A life-sized model of a blue whale outside of the National Museum of Nature and Science in Ueno Park. We came across a Sumo Wrestling graduation ceremony on our way to the Samurai Museum. The building with the golden flame is the Asahi Beer Tower and part of the headquarters for Asahi Breweries. This is along the Sumida River. The Samurai and Ninja Museum. The traditional sword the katana. Traditional armor. The most expensive of the amors on display because the thread is made from silk and is a different color from the others. Examples of Ninja throwing stars or shuriken. WASAKE Sake Experience in Asakusa neighborhood. WASAKE Sake Experience.The “Ferrari of Sakes”.Capybura heaven at Cafe Capyba.We couldn’t stop smiling. Their fur is surprisingly course and their feet are SO cute!!!!The entrance to the gardens at the Imperial Palace. There are many towers along the wall around the castle and gardens. The historic Edo Castle was built in 1457 while the main buildings of the palace were completed in only 1968.Obansho Guardhouse. Pamelo fruit. Tokagakudo Concert Hall. Located within the Imperial Palace East Garden. I was obsessed with the tilework!Cuteness along the street of Marunouchi Pedestrian Park.Marunouchi Pedestrian Park. The Viva la Vida food truck is the cute yellow and white van on the left side of this picture. Can you tell why I was drawn to it? 😉Hibiya Park and Crane Fountain. The sculpture is known as Japan’s first Western-style park and opened in 1903. Even though I am in the center of the city it is peaceful and quiet here. So many temples everywhere!And cool architecture. This is Azabudai Hills which is part of a large-scale urban redevelopment project near Tokyo Tower. Tokyo Tower. Tokyo Tower and Zojoji Temple.I just love the juxtaposition of ancient and modern architecture. It is impressive to me how they are so mindful about incorporation both. There were hundreds of these statues near the temple. The sign by these statues read: These are “care guardian deities of children”. They are dedicated for the safety growth of children and grandchildren, as well as for the memorial service for still birth and miscarried children. To protect and keep warm their heads, “red hat” “red apron” and “windmill”, were dedicated to the guardian deity of children image. Please refrain from touching. This is called a Bonsho. It is a large hanging bell found in Buddhist temples throughout Japan. This one is at the Zojoji Temple. The beautiful clouds on the way to Hikifune Library this evening to finish this post. ❤️
These past couple weeks we have continued to receive disheartening new of things happening, not only globally but locally and personally as well. I have been working on finding the lessons in the gray and the joy in this season of uncertainty. In spite of all this, I am grateful for the nuggets of joy. Dave and I have done our best to take full advantage of all that Oahu has to offer.
The weekend of September 5th we rented a car and explored all over the island. We picked up the car on Friday around Noon, when Dave finished work, and made our way toward the East. Our ultimate destination for the day was Kaneohe Bay and Kualoa Regional Park to get a view of the beautiful Ko’olau Mountain Range. Earlier in the week we visited an art gallery that had an incredible photograph of the mountain range that helped us decide to make it a priority to see. It definitely didn’t disappoint. Along the way we stopped at many different lookouts and took in the spectacular views of the coastline. On Saturday we decided to start our day with the sunrise at Lanikai Beach before we made our way up to the North Shore. After the beautiful sunrise we stopped at the Kalapawai Market for provisions which included coffee and a delicious breakfast sandwich. We took a rest and walked the beach along Kahana Bay and then ended our day at Giovanni’s shrimp truck in the adorable town of Haleiwa. We finished off the weekend of exploration on Sunday with a visit to Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve. The water everywhere is so clear and blue and gorgeous. I’m glad we got the opportunity to experience it.
One Universe moment that I forgot to mention in my last post was, at the airport when we were leaving LA, we met a girl from Oahu that was going home after visiting a friend in, of all places, San Pedro! She was very friendly and shared a lot of tips with us for our time on Oahu. As you know, getting recommendations from locals is one of our favorite things to do while traveling. We didn’t see her after we went through security but ran into her again while waiting for our bags after we arrived. I learned that she works at a clinic that has a community garden where I could go and volunteer if I liked. We exchanged information and were able to spend some time together last week.
On Wednesday she picked me up and we went to breakfast at Waioli Kitchen. “Waioli Kitchen is special because it is a historic restaurant in Honolulu’s Mānoa Valley that continues a century-old social mission by providing vocational training and a second chance for people recently released from incarceration and recovering from addiction.” (Google) It is a beautiful place that also has delicious food. Afterward she showed me around the island a little bit. She took me to Byodo-In Temple which is located in Valley of the Temples cemetery in Kaneʻohe. The cemetery is in a nondenominational memorial park. I came to learn that her grandparents are entombed in the niche inside the temple and she was gracious enough to bring me inside. What an honor to have been a part of that visit. After visiting the Temple we went up to the Old Pali Road Lookout. Pali Road was constructed in 1897. “The significance of the Pali Highway in Honolulu is rooted in its vital historical connection between leeward and windward Oʻahu, its role as the site of the Battle of Nuʻuanu, where in 1795, King Kamehameha the First fought the decisive Battle of Nuʻuanu in the valley, leading to his conquest of Oʻahu and the unification of the Hawaiian Islands. Its status as a scenic route with a renowned lookout, and its rich folklore, including stories of hauntings and warnings about carrying pork. The highway was built to traverse the difficult terrain of the Koʻolau mountain range.” (Google) She taught me that when we take time to get to know each other it is called “talking story”. I liked the way that phrase felt. She also shared with me a little bit about the significance of leis. They are not only a way to welcome one another, but also there is significant importance in what a lei is made of and what it means. She shared that most of the leis that are given out to tourists don’t have any certain significance but if you were going to make a lei for someone you were interested in or cared about you would go and collect flowers that were difficult to find to show how you feel. If you were going to give a lei to a woman who was pregnant you would want to make sure it was an open lei and not a closed one as it might signify the umbilical cord around the baby’s neck. I learned fascinating things that I might not have learned without this connection. It was such a special way to spend the day and learn more about her and her culture.
Then on Friday I was able to go and volunteer at her clinic’s community garden! The name of the organization is Ipu o Lono with Hoʻoulu ʻĀina. Their website describes their work as follows “Our kūpuna knew and celebrated the importance of food. IpuoLono workdays continue this ancestral celebration. Work with our Mahi ʻĀina staff in the garden to feed our community. Help and learn to care for space and soil – feeding, amending, and shaping garden beds as well as pulling weeds and feeding compost piles.” I spent the morning weeding the garden. We removed invasive plants to make space for the native plants that help feed the community to grow. I learned that they repurpose the invasive plants and are able to use them to make furniture and other things. It was such an honor to be able to give back and not just visit. To learn how they honor and care for the earth. I liked how they talked about how everything is connected and now the earth knows and recognizes us from our effort to take care of it. I left with a very full heart and feeling grateful for the unique opportunity volunteering provided.
After volunteering I met Dave for lunch at La Mariana Sailing Club. “The tiki bar is special because it is the last surviving original tiki bar in Honolulu, functioning as a living museum filled with artifacts from other shuttered tiki establishments like Don the Beachcomber and Trader Vic’s. Its authentic, preserved 1950s atmosphere, complete with nautical decor and waterfront views of the marina, creates a unique and nostalgic experience for visitors, offering a glimpse into Hawaii’s tiki past alongside strong cocktails, live music, and tasty food” (Google) It is cool to know and experience the history of such a special place and the food was delicious. I will say we are experiencing some sticker shock at the cost of food and drinks here so we have been grateful for the happy hour deals that help enjoying ourselves feel a little less painful.
On Saturday the 13th we took the three hour round trip bus ride to the Pearl Harbor National Memorial and it was worth it. Dave’s Paternal Grandfather was in WWII and it was pretty exceptional to learn about the historical significance of the area first hand. The USS Arizona Memorial was under construction so we weren’t able to go on it to view the ship but we were still able to go out on the water and take a closer look.
On Sunday we took a Turtle Canyon snorkeling trip with Living Ocean Tours and it was spectacular. The last time I tried to go snorkeling was when we were in Puerto Rico and it was too wavy to do much without feeling like I was going to drown so I was thankful for a more calm day on the water. We saw several turtles, a few who even came to the surface right in front of us, and many beautiful fish. It was a very calming experience after the bear of a week we had emotionally, and I couldn’t have been more grateful to have that time to replenish my emotional capacity a wee bit. All the things that we have been fortunate enough to experience reminds me of a quote that my friend sent me, “maybe the amount of extraordinary things that happen in your life depends on what you notice.” True story. After snorkeling we walked around the Iolani Palace and saw the state capital, the statue of King Kamehameha and other historical landmarks. Even though we did quite a bit it felt like there was a slower pace which we both appreciated.
We’re spending this week taking advantage of the few days we have left in this beautiful place. We’ll probably go to the beach a couple more times and just soak in the Aloha spirit. I am glad we came to Oahu and can definitely see us coming back some day.
On Friday we leave for Japan. We will be there for a total of seven weeks and are excited to visit another place we haven’t been before, learn about another culture and eat delicious food. It will be interesting to adjust to Dave’s work schedule again as he continues to try and keep central time zone working hours when Tokyo is 14 hours ahead! It’s all part of the adventure that keeps the learning curve steep.
I hope this finds you well and cared for. Sending you love wherever you are!
♥️Alison
The view of Diamond Head on my morning walk near WaikikiMy walk also takes me past the Honolulu Zoo. We first saw the Red-crested Cardinal when we were visiting Iguazu Falls in Brazil. Despite their name they are not closely related to the true cardinals found in North America. You could’ve fooled me. Either way they’re beautiful! Friday the 5th: First day with the rental car. First stop-Diamond Head State Monument Lookout. More views from the lookout. The view from out lunch spot at Kona Brewing near Hawaii Kai.Oahu’s incredible coastline as seen from Lānaʻi Lookout along the Kalaniana’ole Highway.Lānaʻi Lookout.Views of Sandy Beach from Lānaʻi Lookout.Makapuʻu Lookout and beach. Makapuʻu Lookout.View of Koʻolau Mountains from Kāneʻohe Beach Park.Mokoliʻi Island.Day 2 with the car. Sunrise at Lanikai Beach. A gorgeous view of the Mokulua Islands.Some people were a little more ambitious and climbed up to the Pillbox to take in the view from there. Peekaboo sun. What a great way to start the day! I wish this beach was closer so we could’ve enjoyed it more. Had to stop for another picture of the Koʻolau Mountain Range.Kahana Bay Beach Park. Cool rock formations at Lāʻie Point State Wayside.Windmills from Lāʻie Point.Pipeline Beach. Not too much pipe but definitely too big to swim.But that didn’t keep people from trying. Pipeline Beach. Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck, Haleʻiwa.A beautiful day start (Left: Lanikai Beach in Kailua) to finish (Right: Waikiki in Honolulu).Day 3 with the rental car. Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve. Absolute Paradise. This is what preservation looks like. Crystal clear water. These beautiful “Cattle Egrets” are everywhere!We finished the day exploring around Waikiki. Don’t forget your surfboard!And a delicious Mai Tai from Monkeypod! Byodo-In Temple Byodo-In TempleOld Pali Highway Lookout. Old Pali Highway Lookout. Ipu o Lono with Hoʻoulu ʻĀina. Where I volunteered.Ipu o Lono with Hoʻoulu ʻĀina. What a beautiful place!La Mariana Sailing Club Tiki Bar. La Mariana Sailing ClubHonoring the founding Mother. La Mariana Sailing Club.Pearl Harbor National Monument. USS Bowfin. USS Arizona Memorial.USS Arizona Memorial. Even though Waikiki is crowded with tourists you cannot beat the beautiful sunsets. “Barnacle Betty” Welcoming us onto our Living Waters Turtle Canyon Tour. The Royal Brewery. Built in 1900 was the original home of Primo Beer. Iolani Palace. Before Hawaii was taken over in 1898 it had a Monarchy and this was their palace. Aliʻiōlani Hale (The house of heavenly kings) and the statue of King Kamehameha V.This tree reminds me of Angel Oak in South Carolina. The Hawaiian State Capital Building. The Kalanimoku State Office BuildingThe 1821 Mission House is the oldest existing house in Hawaii. Kawaiahaʻo Landmark, “The water of Ha’o”Lunalilo Mausoleum.Kawaiahaʻo Church (The Stone Church) Built of giant coral slabs, hewn from ocean reefs, this sanctuary became known as the stone church. Ground was broken for this church in 1837.The crest on the gates of the Iolani Palace.Sunrise sky from our balcony. Cute murals in our hood.
Before I begin I have a correction to make from my previous post. Hawaii is actually the first place in Oceania we’ll be visiting. Thanks Dave! ?
Our last two weeks in Minnesota were a parade of goodbyes/ see you laters/ sayonaras. We got a lot squeezed into those two weeks including several trips to the fair. Amidst our fare thee wells both sides of our families were going through it too. Dave lost an aunt which definitely left us feeling bereft. We fortunately got to spend some time with her while we were in Florida for the Holidays in 2023 and loss is never easy. His uncle sent us a text, in response to the one we sent him, that read “Thanks we love you guys. We are glad you are still on your dream trip. Do it while you can. You never know what the future holds and when your time in this life will be over. I will miss my wife and will always regret the things we did not get to do.” The fact that he took the time to write that to us in the midst of incredible loss was poignant. We continue this next leg of the adventure in her honor. No regrets!
We celebrated two years of this adventure on Aug 26th with a wonderful dinner with my sisters and their husbands. Where has the time gone? I cannot express my gratitude enough for all the people in our life that have been intentional with us and who have made time for us. Everyone’s time is a precious gift and I don’t take a single second of it for granted!
Here are some things we learned while we were home. We need to stay in one place the whole time we’re home. We were very grateful to everyone that took care of us during the nine weeks we were there and having the consistency and stability that not moving around all the time brings is huge! Next, two months is a long time to be home. And, a full week with either of our families is a lot too. Obviously we loved every minute we were given with everyone and there is a reason the old adage, guests, like fish, start to smell after three days” exists? Another thing we learned was that Dave needs to take more time off while we’re home. He only took two days off during the two plus months we were in the Midwest and one was spent solely on doctors appointments. I know this was difficult this time around, especially since his company was bought and there were a lot of changes around that, and hopefully it’ll be easier next time.
One thing I noticed while in the Midwest, after being in the culture of community that Central and South America exudes for six months, was that the energy in the US, outside of our carefully cultivated circle, reminds me of the crabs in a bucket mentality. In case you haven’t heard of that metaphor it is “the mindset where people try to undermine or pull down others who are trying to succeed or improve their lives.” It doesn’t feel good and hurts my heart to see.
Unfortunately I witnessed an example of this first hand upon our arrival in LAX. There was a pretty terrible altercation that took place in close proximity to us, between two people on the shuttle bus from the plane to the terminal, that continued all the way to baggage claim. We couldn’t get around it. So much hate. I am aware that I am a sensitive person and was severely sleep deprived at the time but there is absolutely no reason for any humans to treat each other the way they were, and they were total strangers! I’m thankful it didn’t escalate further and I don’t know what could have been done to stop it. I saw a post from @therealunscripted this morning on Instagram that said, “Always treat every[one] you meet with kindness for you never know [what] they are going through and check on your strongest friend they carry pain with a smile on their face” Such an important reminder.
Even though we weren’t able to have the time with Dave’s Aunt and Uncle as we had planned, because life called them elsewhere, we made the best of our time in San Pedro, California. After a good long nap we had a delicious lunch at a Mexican restaurant where we practiced our Spanish a little. Afterward, kinda last minute, we were able to meet up with an old friend in the Melrose neighborhood for a drink and then we capped off the day with my first visit to The Getty. It is an enormous place and we arrived later in the day so we spent most of our time there taking in the views and even caught the sunset.
We arrived in Honolulu late Monday night and spent the first couple days in a hotel because our Air BnB wasn’t available. One random thing we noticed at our hotel is that there were several people who were wearing eye patches like they had just had cataract surgery. It was very peculiar and if anyone can shed some insight into why the Waikiki area of Oahu is a magnet for these kinds of surgeries I would welcome any thoughts. My guess is, who wouldn’t want to recover in Hawaii, but who knows.
We were finally able to move into our Air BnB yesterday afternoon and will hopefully start feeling more settled during the next two and half weeks here until we leave for Japan on the 20th. I’m hoping to carry the loving spirit of the previous six months with me through this next leg and beyond. We haven’t been gone this long since our first leg and I’ll be curious to see how it feels differently than before. I will continue to shine my light in the best way possible because that is what the world needs. We have to have more empathy. I leave you with this quote from Chelsea Handler that I read in her most recent book, “The expansion of your belief systems, values, opinions, exposure to different people and places are the seeds to us growing up and out.”
Check in on your people, let them know you love them, see them, and that they matter.
Sending you love wherever you are!
❤️Alison
Minnehaha Falls. Minneapolis, MinnesotaNew mural in the train underpass near Como Park. Saint Paul, MinnesotaKermit the Dog came to visit!“Butterfly Effect” mural by the artist CYFI. Saint Paul, MinnesotaCrop Art is one of my favorite things to see at the Minnesota State Fair!Only a few other people love the fair as much as I do. 😉The Fine Arts at the State Fair are pretty incredible too! “Not in Kansas” by Richard Abraham.Adam Turman is a local artist who has a big showing all over the state. The entrance to The Getty. Los Angeles, CaliforniaThe GettySunset view from The Getty over Los Angeles.The view from our lanai at the Wayfinder Hotel in Honolulu, Hawaii. Ala Moana Center. Honolulu, HawaiiSunrise walk in Honolulu.You know I can’t resist a good mural.Moving to our Air BnB. Waikiki Beach is only a five minute walk from our place. 🙂This morning’s sunrise.
It has been almost six weeks since I’ve updated you on our adventures! Our time at home has been all the things and I can’t believe we only have 11 days left until we leave for the next leg. As I reflected upon in my last post, the three weeks of being at the same place really did wonders for our central nervous systems and helped prepare us for the past three weeks which included a TON of family time. After we left our friend’s house in Minnetonka we went to Eau Claire for the weekend to have a family staycation with my side of the family. We golfed and pontooned and had a wonderful time with all 14 of us. From there we visited friends in Madison on our way to Oconomowoc for a week with Dave’s parents. It was a busy week reconnecting with several friends and family members in the area. We also had an overnight stay with an old friend in Milwaukee. It was fun to have a little getaway in the midst of everything and finally have a chance to check in with Dave. I know that I have felt this in past visits home but when we’re so busy I feel like I miss Dave. It makes sense because it is quite different from when it is just the two of us and I am aware that this is something I’d like to work on moving forward.
This past week we went to Marquette, Michigan with another dear friend and had an incredible time. The Upper Peninsula of Michigan and the beautiful views of Lake Superior that it provides is one of our favorite places in the United States. This was my sixth time being up in that area and it never disappoints. Being in nature with Dave and our friend, exploring things we haven’t done before and just going with the flow was exactly what we all needed. I’m grateful that this extended time in the Midwest provided an opportunity to go back for the first time in two years. It is where we began the US/Canada portion of our adventure and it was fun to return.
On August 30th we will begin what we’re calling the Oceania leg of our adventure. We’re still working on the correct way to pronounce it. We’re going with (ow-shee-a-nee-uh). Re: Google “owshi-aaa(long a)nia. For all the Americans out there from an Australian you pronounce it Ohshe-ai-knee-a. Oceania is a vast geographical region in the Pacific Ocean, encompassing Australia, New Zealand, and thousands of islands.” Some of the places we’ll be visiting aren’t considered part of Oceania but the majority of our time will be spent in this region. We will start with a couple days visiting Dave’s Aunt and Uncle in San Pedro, California. You may remember that we spent a couple weeks with them back in February of 2024. From there every place we’ll be visiting are ones we’ve never been to before. First we fly to Honolulu for three weeks. We’ve been to Hawaii but never to Oahu. We’re hoping we’re able to do a long weekend in Kauai as well. From there we fly to Tokyo. We’ll be in Japan for a total of seven weeks! We’re excited to explore Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. After Japan we will visit Seoul, South Korea for three weeks before we make our way to Brisbane Australia. Brisbane is technically the first city in Oceania.
With how long we are home this time and how far away we are going we will sadly miss the holidays with our family again. I know I said, if possible, I never wanted to do that again and such is the nature of the life we’ve chosen. As always, we are grateful for this time and we are excited for whatever the future has in store for us. We are confident that with a little faith and a lot of going with the flow, it is sure to be amazing!
Sending you love wherever you are!
Al and Dave ❤️
The sunset in Pepin, Wisconsin. Girls weekend. As you know I can’t get enough of the sky, wherever I am 🙂I spent the past year reading every book Sarah J. Maas wrote. I finished with the Crescent City series, which was my favorite of the three. This was a theme in those books and it spoke to me. I also have had a trend thus far getting some ink each time I come home so that’s fun too. Coupled with my close friend getting the same message tattooed on her. Good times! Ink done by @hclou @cozycampcollective who also did the cute one of Trek and Barley. Kermit the Dog. The best part about the three weeks we spent at our friend’s house. “Life goals: pet all the dogs!”Alexis Bailly Vineyard, Hastings, MN. Day trip!If you think you’re beginning to notice a trend. You’re correct. 🙂 (Kermit the Dog)When I’m home I NEED to soak up as much honorary and actual Auntie time that I can! This is heart fullness incarnate! Breakfast of champions. I missed bloody marys while traveling. Added bonus: cute dog! Food please!Our last visit to Station Pizza in Minnetonka was spent with old friends and a beautiful sunset. One of my favorite are pieces in my friend’s house. The sweetest cuckoo clock from https://www.ikookoo.com/collections/cuckoo-clocksNature during the family staycation at Lake Hallie Golf Course / Bar & Restaurant.Quintessential Midwest Summer! ❤️❤️❤️Lake Wissota State ParkWhen you ask AI to show me and my amazing sisters on the pontoon during the family staycation. The state capital of Wisconsin in Madison.Mama Rosa. Wisconsin’s first Thomas Dambo Troll located in Wauwatosa.Our first The Lake Country DockHounds minor league baseball game in Oconomowoc, Wisconsin. Very grateful to our friends who hooked us up with great seats.:)Wisconsin makes some of the best bloody marys! This one is from Stolley’s Hogg Alley in Oconomowoc. The view of Lake Michigan from Big Bay Park in Whitefish Bay, Wisconsin. Hanging around Lakefront Brewery in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. When you’re in WI you must get the fish fry and Lakefront has some of the best! During our time visiting Dave’s Parents in Oconomowoc we took his dad our for a round of golf at Deertrak Gold Club. Continuing my trend of petting all the dogs, I got some time with my friend’s foster puppy while in Eau Claire, Wisconsin. And my sister’s baby Yoda. I mean dog Creek 🙂My sister and I took a walk one morning and saw some beautiful wildlife along the Chippewa River. This is a picture of the imprint in the grass my friend and my bodies made when we were reunited after two weeks! Another beautiful sunset our first night in Marquette, Michigan. And the full moon that night. I feel like it had been a while since I saw one. The shores of Lake Superior in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Cool murals on 3rd Street in Marquette, Michigan. “Lady of the Lake Memorial Statue” by Earl Senchuk located at Picnic Rocks Mark in Marquette. More views of Lake Superior’s beautiful coastline. One of the days my friend and I drove to Houghton. This is the Portage Canal Lift Bridge.The Member Mug Room at Blackrocks Brewery in Marquette. My attempt to see the Perseids Meteor Shower at 430am and realizing there is too much light pollution. 🙂A beautiful morning walk in Marquette. The old ore dock is no long functioning. The view of the ore dock never gets old. Maritime Museum The view of Lake Superior doesn’t either 🙂Breaker wall. Presque Isle Harbor Breakwater Light. View of Pictured Rocks. Miners CastleMiners FallsMiners Falls Park Taking in the beauty of Lake Superior. Such pristine water!Lake SuperiorSunset near the ore dock. My goodness we love this place!Getting one more use of the frisbee golf discs at Silver Creek Disc Golf. Little Presque Isle. The Ore DockTrying to land rocks on the old pier posts. Mine is the small one in the front on the right. 🙂Reminds me of the narrowest building in San Juan, Puerto Rico.A cool mural above the bar at Zephyr Wine Bar + Café.On our way to Blackrocks one last time. Dave finished off our time in Marquette with a gigantic cone from Frosty Treats!
“When you go in pursuit of your personal legend, all the universe conspires in helping you to achieve it.” Paulo Coelho (The Alchemist)
I know that the Universe has shown us that its got us several times throughout the course of this adventure and this past week we learned that it isn’t only while we’re away from home. Last Saturday was a nice chill day. One of our first mornings to sleep in since we arrived home. I went to meet a friend for breakfast and then I came home and just relaxed. Later in the afternoon Dave and I were going to go for a walk and we couldn’t find the house key. We didn’t resort to how either of us may have responded in the past, with frustration or blame, we calmly retraced our steps. I was so proud of us for staying true to everything we learned! Thank goodness our neighbors that we were staying with had an extra key because if nothing else we could always make more copies. I keep my keys on a carabiner and then clip it on and off my purse when I go places. Since the key was no where in the house we decided to drive to where I had breakfast and see if it happened to have fallen off in the parking lot when I was doing one of my on/off clippings. I was driving my friend’s husband’s big pickup truck, which I was so grateful to have use of and had massive performance anxiety about, so I parked in the grocery store parking lot next to the restaurant instead of right in front of it. I scoured the parking lot while Dave had the genius idea of checking inside the store to see if anyone had turned it in. Low and behold they had!!!! My goodness were we grateful! And we got a major reminder from the Universe that with a little faith and trust we will be taken care of. That, and, there are still good people in this world!
Another realization I’ve had since we’ve been home is that socialization is exhausting and I am SUPER out of practice! ? I’ve always been a very social person. It fills me up to be around people. Before Covid I would triple book my life and never had a minute alone. That was my norm/ default. I didn’t know any different. And, I was always so hard on myself whenever I had to cancel for reasons out of my control. I never got upset with people when they canceled because it gave me the gift of unscheduled downtime. You’d think my love and excitement for when things like that happened would’ve taught me to be more intentional about scheduling it on my own but it took Covid for me to actually make the change. Covid taught me that I not only enjoy but actually can thrive in downtime. It also helped me repriortize what really matters and to cultivate an incredible circle of like minded people that could hold me accountable when the triple booking would kick in. Traveling has taught me that I’m also really good at being alone.
Since I have so much alone time when we’re gone I really do want to take advantage of seeing everyone when I have the chance. Thank God for friends and family that make time to chat along the way. Being this busy is exhausting and I can’t even imagine if we were also trying to catch up on six months of life on top of it. It is interesting how in life we create habits and tell ourselves “that’s the way it has always been so it must be working.” What a sad state a fixed mind set like that is. Growth, transition and change is where it is at for me now.
As I have been reconnecting with friends and family I’ve been able to do a lot of processing with people that “get” it. I had been feeling for the past couple weeks since we’ve been home that something felt different this time. I was more exhausted, for the reasons I have already mentioned, and I also have had this kind of unsettled feeling. We were in an Air Bnb the first week and then at our old neighbor’s house last week and now we’re at a friend’s house for the next few weeks. One of my very insightful friends said “it is probably because you don’t a home base yet.” I thought about it and that is the one outlier that is different from the previous two times we’ve come home to visit. Both of those times we had one place that we stayed the entire visit. I know I always find a way to say that even though we’ve been at this for almost two years the learning curve is still steep, this is one of those cases. We should know/be aware of this because that is why we spend at least three weeks in any of the places we visit. That is the sweet spot that helps us feel settled and gives us a chance to really experience where we are. It is interesting when you’re “in it” how you can’t always see with clarity. Thank goodness for friends that know my heart and can help me find my way. We now know that even though we are so grateful the Universe took care of us by helping us with lodging and cars while we’re home, we know that moving forward we’ll want to have a set place for the entire visit because having a regulated nervous system is priceless.
It fills my heart to reconnect with my circle face to face. Yes we made friends the past six months and even got to see some family but being together in person is a whole different thing energetically. I can’t imagine what it would be like if it was spent with people who also didn’t know my heart!!! All the things amiright?
The first two weeks of being home went so fast I have no doubt the next seven are going to continue that way, so we’re determined to take advantage of every minute we have with our people and soak it all in because this next leg there’s a chance we won’t see any familiar faces, although I hope not.
I hope everyone is doing okay. I hope you’re taking care of yourselves and each other. I hope you’re giving yourselves what you need!
Sending you love wherever you are!
P.S. Since a lot of what we’re doing while we’re home, besides catching up on doctor’s appointments, is seeing people, I don’t have a ton of pictures to share. And, I wanted to check in and let you know how we’re doing
The return to MinnesotaWatching the Saint Paul Saints baseball team in 95 degree weather at CHS Field in Saint Paul, Minnesota. The Minnesota State Capital. Interesting art in our Air Bnb the first week we were home. My performance anxiety inducing ride. ?Never miss an opportunity to capture a pic of a cool mural. This one is in the parking lot at the 331 Club in Minneapolis. So much love. Reconnecting with my circle!Dave having fun with ChatGPT. When staying in our old neighborhood, a walk around the State Fairgrounds is a must!The Fairgrounds like to enlist local artists to help beautify the grounds. This is entitled “Gavia Immer” by Wes Winship. Dave got his first pairs of glasses. Backyard barbecues are pretty much the epitome of any summer in Minnesota! Nice night for an evening. I visited my Grandma’s grave. I visited the “Alebrijes: Keepers of the Island” sculptures on Raspberry Island. https://www.stpaul.gov/departments/parks-and-recreation/recreation-centers/parks-recreation-programs/public-art/alebrijesMore Saint Paul sky. It was fun to wander around the old hood. TRAIN!Moving three times in three weeks can take a lot out of a man. 😉CLOUDS!Kermit the Dog. My blogging buddy and our companion for the next three weeks.
With the Americas portion of this adventure drawing to a close, we’ll be home on Saturday, I find myself in all the feels. There is the excitement of seeing friends and family, coupled with the desire to hold on to my truth, and not regress to the person I was when I lived there. I realize that this awareness is a sign of growth. I want to stay grounded in gratitude for all that this life has given us. I also want to continue to be intentional about my actions, words and deeds. I want to do it all of it while protecting my peace and energy. No small feat. ?
It is typical to be in all the feels at this point and it is somehow, still surprising. It is interesting to me that none of it really gets easier. No matter how much you reflect and learn about yourself and life it never ceases to amaze me. I guess that is part of the adventure too. My dad always says, “never stop learning.” I’ll add changing and growing to that as well.
With everything going on in the world, and especially in the wake of the devastation in Minnesota last weekend, with the terrible murder of the Minnesota House of Representatives Speaker Melissa Hortman and her husband Mark, I feel even more the sense of privilege that I have. The privilege of being separated from the cruelness in the world, although I know terrible things are happening to humanity everywhere, because I live a relatively comfortable life, where my needs are met and I have the luxury of turning off/tuning out the news when it becomes too much for my heart to handle. None of those things, that I find myself doing as a tool for survival, keeps me from feeling it.
Dave and I both have a lot of feelings about being back in the United States. It feels hard to reconcile with the direction our country is going in when it is one that doesn’t align with our hearts/truths/souls. We only had a few days of direct exposure to it before we left the country six months ago. We are informed and it is impossible to know the full extent of it. It is so much, and, I know that “you have to feel it to heal it”. I also know that forgiveness is the only way through. I’m just not there yet. Right now it feels far from my realm of understanding.
As an empath I have found that reiki really helps remind me of what matters and what I want to prioritize. It resets what my intentions are for my life. I know that at the beginning of this adventure I really wanted to share my light wherever we went. It makes me think of the quote from Gandhi that I had in my classroom all my years of teaching that said “be the change you want to see in the world.” I will try to hold on to that important reminder moving forward. My hope is to do everything with and through love, because that is what the world needs more of.
Sending you love wherever you are!
❤️Alison
After three weeks in Puerto Rico, and a 4.5 hour layover at the Bogota airport, we arrived in Panama City, Panama on June 7th. This was the view from our balcony that we woke up to that first morning. Views from the rooftop of our building. More rooftop views. Dave said that one of the YouTube videos he watched called Panama City “the Dubai of Central America.” With all the tall buildings you can see why. Panamá Viejo (Old Panama) Ruins. Our first Sunday we visited Old Panama which was founded in 1519. I appreciated the juxtaposition between the old architecture and the new.There was a lot of cool wildlife around the ruins of Old Panama as well. The Green Iguana. Turkey Vultures. Yellow-headed Caracara.The Southern Lapwing. And its baby. The Black Spiny-tailed Iguana. Which from what I could gather, loves to stretch its head up to the sun. Which we have learned there isn’t a lot of during the rainy season. At least we got lucky on the weekends when Dave could explore too. 🙂Panama City has a nice esplanade along the Cinta Costera that offers great view of the bay. Where you can meet friendly kitties along the way. And also has views of Casco Viejo (Old Town) Panama. Even when the sun isn’t out it is a hot and humid time to be in Panama. Most days it is 85 degrees by 8am and even the shortest walk can have you soaked with sweat. Yay! 😉And, the nighttime rooftop views are spectacular! It also is one of the few places where you can find a breeze!The ring road around Casco Viejo.One of the days that it wasn’t raining I made the 55min hike to explore Casco Viejo.Conjunto Monumental de Las Bóvedas (The Vaults used for prisoners and storage.)Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Santa Maria the Ancient. It is the biggest church in Panama and construction began on it in 1688.Casco Viejo vibes. Plaza Bolivar.Casco Viejo has great views of the skyline. I bought a vintage Panama license plate from one of the vendors on the pier. The ruins of La Iglesia de La Compañía de Jesus (The Church of the Company of Jesus.) The church, as well as the entire area of Casco Viejo, became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978 and dates back to 1578.The Coca-Cola cafe is the oldest cafe in Panama. “It opened in 1875 and has been a meeting place for historical figures, including Fidel Castro and Che Guevara during their planning of the Cuban Revolution.” (Google)Plaza Santa Ana. Casco Viejo. More cool architecture. The F&F Tower, also called “Revolution Tower” or “El Tornillo” (“The Screw”), for its cool design. On the 14th we took a boat tour on Gatun Lake. We were able to see where the middle of the Panama Canal is and spend the morning with some of the local wildlife. This is the White-faced Monkey enjoying some peanuts.We also saw the very shy Tamarin Monkeys and fed them some bananas. Tamarin Monkeys. These cuties were on the roof of another tour boat. They were using the lemons to clean themselves and each other. One the way back to the bus we got to see a huge cargo ship on Gatun Lake. It was pretty impressive. One night we did a little more exploring around our neighborhood of Belle Vista. This is the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen (Spanish for Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel).We also saw the Einstein Head in El Cangrejo which is a bustling college neighborhood.This past Sunday, Dave and I went back to Casco Viejo together to explore some more. We saw the inside of The Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Santa María la Antigua.Art inside the cathedral. “Come Gallina” by Ureña Ramos.Beautiful stained glass of San Vicente de Paul. Views from the Casco pier. This is the Bio Museum. The Bridge of the Americas. We also visited the Panama Canal Museum. This is an old light/glass from a lighthouse. This is a ceramic funeral mask recovered in Miraflores from 600-800 c.e. Images from early Panama.This flag covered Ambassador Miguel J. Moreno when he went to Washington D.C. in 1964 to aid in the Inter-American Peace Commission. “Mirages of the Gap” by Cisco Merel.
The following pictures are some of the pieces from and exhibit inside the Panama Canal Museum. It is entitled Surcos. “Traces: On the Body and on the Land. The exhibit is “a profound reflection on the enduring traces that migration leaves on individuals and their surroundings.” The messaging was very powerful an current to the happenings around the world.
The curators Ana Elizabeth González and Mónica E. Kupfer write, “The extraordinary works of art in this pavilion shed light on overlooked experience, forging a path toward empathy. They serve as a poignant reminder, urging the viewer, not to relegate to oblivion the stories of those who have faced unimaginable violence and hardships in their efforts to reach a better place. The exhibition aims to establish a connection between art and a current crisis that we only understand in an incomplete and fragmented way. It endeavors to create an echo within the viewers as they consider the lives of others who are forced to carve out their own arduous journeys-the kind that leave indelible traces on the land and on the body.”
“Everything that is noble and true” by Giana De Dier.
Migrar (To Migrate) “Migration is a right, not a crime, and no one is illegal. Far from being an isolated phenomenon migration is part of the fabric that connects societies. Throughout history, people have moved in, search of safety, stability, and opportunity. Today, immigration policies and public perception impose barriers that determine who can move and under what conditions. Criminalizing migration reinforces stereotypes, dehumanizes, and fosters discrimination, affecting social coexistence and human rights. This exhibition invites us to observe, reflect, and contextualize a phenomenon that continues to evolve. By bringing it to Panama, we seek to broaden the conversation on an issue that, although global, has direct consequences for our region.” Amen!
“Selva” by Isabel De Obaldia.We finished our day of exploring Casco Viejo at the eclectic Tántalo Hotel. This is the mural above their bar.And took in the rooftop views.Panama City is beautiful, especially when the sun comes out, and full of history and culture. I’m glad we came and I am looking forward to being home for a bit. ❤️
I am currently working on my blog in the lobby of the Double Tree two blocks from our Air BnB in San Juan, Puerto Rico. I am here because, as our host put it, our building is running on only one power phase. ? No lights, no outlets and no internet. At least the A/C was still running and the fridge was on, unlike last Friday when I had just gotten back from the grocery store and nothing was working! At least they provided us with a generator to run a fan from, a cooler bag and ice, so I didn’t overheat nor did I have to throw everything away. I was also grateful that the power came back on just a few hours later and not days like has happened before. We are kind of surprised, honestly, that with all the places we have visited, it happened this close to the US, and hasn’t been a problem anywhere else. Puerto Rico definitely needs and deserves more love!
Other than the finicky power grid that Puerto Rico is known for, and our host has no control over, our Air BnB is really nice. It is in a great location only a five minute walk from Condado Beach in the Santurce area of San Juan. We learned on our first day that Santurce is where “the best baseball player to come out of Puerto Rico”, Roberto Clemente, was from.
We are just starting our third week in Puerto Rico and leave for Panama on Saturday for our final two weeks before we are back in the Midwest. Our first week in Ponce, pronounce PAWN-say or POHN-say, was great and I definitely appreciated having a car to explore with. I would drop Dave off at his colocation place each morning and then go out and have a solo adventure. One day I went to the hot spring filled pools at Baños de Coamo which was only $5 and absolutely lovely. I went to Buyé Beach in Cabo Rojo which had the most beautiful white sand and pristine clear water. I also took a day to visit Hacienda Buena Vista – Para la Naturaleza which is an old coffee plantation turned nature center which still has all the facilities used for growing and processing coffee as well as cascades and nature trails to explore. After Hacienda Buena Vista I visited Museo Castillo Serrallés which is a mansion turned museum on a hill that overlooks the main square in Ponce. On the hill there was also the Cruceta del Vigía and a Japanese Garden you can visit.
In the evenings after Dave was done with work we explored the old square. We admired the architecture of the Cathedral and Parque de Bombas and enjoyed some delicious food and drinks. Our last night in Ponce we drove back to La Parguera, where we went our first weekend in Ponce, and took a boat tour to the bioluminescent bay. It was definitely a different experience than the one we had in Fajardo seven years ago. We were on a bigger boat instead of kayaks and it was just after the sunset so not as dark which made it difficult to see how brilliant is can be. It also is the first time we’ve been to see it since Hurricane Maria and Irma hit the island in 2017 so I’m not sure if it has returned as strong. In spite of all that it was still worth the experience. Being on the water at night, seeing the stars and some bioluminescence, was truly lovely.
On the 24th my family arrived!!!! My sister did SO much work to make it happen. After all of the research she did to find a nice place for the six of us to stay, two days before they arrived, our place was canceled because of a power outage. Fortunately she was able to find another place that was absolutely wonderful. Having family come see us in Puerto Rico was good for the soul. The first full day the men golfed and my sister and I got some quality time together. We explored El Yunque National Forest around the visitor center because the road further into the park was a pretty treacherous two lane road that was under construction. Her and I also spent our last day together enjoying the pool at the resort. As a group we took a snorkeling boat trip out of Fajardo. We visited Palomino Island and saw some turtles. It has been a long time since I’ve been snorkeling and it was challenging to do in the waves and it was still an amazing experience. Another day we went to Old San Juan and visited the Castillo San Felipe del Morro together which was fun. We were also able to explore around town a little but after our tour. It was a day that a cruise ship came in so the streets were crowded and it was very hot so we didn’t last very long. Each night we ate some incredible food and just enjoyed each other’s company. I am beyond grateful to them for making the trip and my heart is still very full.
We sadly had to say goodbye to each other last Thursday. They were nice enough to drop us off at our Air BnB in San Juan before they went to the airport. We were very grateful to our host for letting us have an early check in. I think it was fun for them to see where we will be this week first hand too. This past weekend Dave and I had fun exploring our neighborhood and more of Old San Juan that we hadn’t seen before, which we did on Saturday. We took an Uber to Plaza Colón and saw Castillo San Cristóbal from the outside then we walked up the Paseo de la Princesa where they had vendors selling their wares. We always wish we had more money and space in our luggage to buy all the things. We saw the Fuente Raíces and then walked along the walkway along the bay in front of the La Fortaleza through the Puerta de San Juan and then up to La Casa Estrecha (The Narrow House) that measures on five feet three inches across! It used to be an alleyway until architect Antonio Álvarez turned it into a habitable abode before it became a museum. We enjoyed walking around and exploring Old San Juan, especially since it was a day without a cruise ship visiting, and it was HOT! We felt like we were melting into a puddle the entire day.
On Sunday we decided to do something inside with A/C so we went to the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico and it was wonderful. It had a spectacular collection of art that speaks directly to what the Puerto Rican experience is about called Puerto Rico Plural. In the Topologias exhibit we saw some of the very creative ways Zilia Sánchez stretches canvas to make interesting shapes. In the exhibit “El agua no tiene enemigos (Water no get enemy)” Artist Jean “Baco” Ortiz, who is from Ponce, created some powerful art in response to Hurricanes Maria and Irma which both hit the island of Puerto Rico in 2017, the flooding that followed and the effects of global climate change. I’m so glad we went!
With only three weeks left until we are back in the Midwest I find myself grounded in gratitude for everything that this adventure has taught us. Everyone we have met and all the amazing things we’ve seen and done. I cannot wait to be back together with my family and friends and I am grateful for this life that we have chosen and it isn’t always easy and we get through it together. I can definitely say that it has made me a much more patient person, who is better at going with the flow, and trusting that the universe has our backs.
♥️Alison
The Cathedral Our Lady of Guadalupe. Ponce, Puerto RicoFountain in Ponce’s Historic AreaPoncePonce’s City Hall Murals and love, what a perfect combination. PonceParque de Bombas is the historic fire station in Ponce and is now a museum. It is an interesting contrast to the Cathedral directly on the backside of the building. Old hose carts at Parque de BombasAmazing metal work in downtown Ponce that rivals Charleston, South Carolina. The view from the deck at our Air BnB in Ponce on a relatively clear day. Nature trail to the cascade at Hacienda Buena Vista – Para la NaturalezaVives CascadeHobbit hole or well access 🙂SO many lizards!Coffee bean drying racksGigantic roasting pan.“The best coffee in the world”The mirror reflects the multiple levels of the grinding building. Museo Castillo SerrallésThey also had a display of vintage Don Q rum barrels in the museum. The view from Museo Castillo Serrallés.This was one of the only picture you could take inside the museum. Where Don Q got its name from. Don Quixote and Sancho Panza.Cruceta del Vigia. It was too hot to explore too much more at this point. 🙂Buyé BeachBuyé BeachBioluminescence from the motor on the boat in La Parguera.Even though it is blurry it was a beautiful evening to be on the boat and there were SO many stars!The view from our place with the family in one of the villas at Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve Puerto Rico.View from the other side where the public beach is and they are working on building. Some of the beautiful flora, Heliconia bihai, at El Yunque National Forest.This path had a cool art sculptures mixed in with the flora. This is called Metamorphic and is by Chaveli Sifre. Heliconia hirsuta. This sculpture is called “El Portal del Yunque: Presence and Lichen.” By Ivelisse JiménezThese Greater Antillean Grackles were EVERYWHERE! Dave called them organized crime on the golf course when you had snacks 🙂 Seen here by our villa pool puffing himself up to hopefully court a mate. Turtle near Palomino Island on our snorkeling trip. Our boat day was a little cloudy and we had a few drops of rain. When we got back to our place we were blessed with this incredible rainbow. Photo cred to my sister!Old San Juan day with the fam. Unfortunately Dave had to work this day. Castillo San Felipe del Morro.Castillo San Felipe del MorroWhen the view is this cool you need all the combos!♥️Interesting designs on the castle walls. Old lighthouse at the fort. View from Castillo San Felipe del MorroStatue in front of Cuartel de Ballajá in Old San JuanCatedral de San Juan Bautista. Cathedral of John the Baptist.La Fortaleza Street. The walkway along the bay. The view of La Fortaleza from the bay. Walking back up from the bay. I couldn’t get enough of the colorful buildings in Old San Juan. Pool day with my sister. Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve Puerto Rico.The beautiful sky on the last night with the fam. Blue hour at CARABALÍ BAR AND GRILL. A delicious meal to finish off our time together. SO incredibly grateful for our time together!!!! Heart exploding love!!!! CARABALÍ BAR AND GRILLOur first day at our new place in San Juan we discovered Lote 23 food truck court. We were greeted by this very proud rooster and had some yummy pizza and margaritas. Sunset on Condado Beach.Kane Rum Bar in Cordado. We kicked off our day of exploring Old San Juan at Plaza Colón. The Hotel Alma, seen on the left hand side of the photo, is where we finished our day at their rooftop bar that had spectacular views!Yes I do!Statue of Christopher Columbus. Paseo de la PrincesaFormer prison. Paseo de la PrincesaFuente Raíces. The fountain depicts bronze gods and goddesses of Taíno, European and African descent to represent the racial and ethnic roots of the Puerto Rican people.Fuente Raíces.The beginning of the walkway along the bay. More images inside of Catedral de San Juan Bautista which opened in 1802.Catedral de San Juan BautistaCatedral de San Juan BautistaLa Casa EstrechaLa Casa Estrecha is only five feet three inches wide 🙂Plaza del Quinto Centenario“The totem in Plaza del Quinto Centenario, also known as El Tótem Telúrico, represents the indigenous roots of the Americas and the violent encounter between the original inhabitants and European colonizers. The totem, a 40-foot black granite and clay tower, is a tribute to the Taíno heritage and their connection to the land. It symbolizes the origin of the New World and the history of Puerto Rico.” (Google)I love how they can make sheep curls in bronze!The Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery with Fort San Felipe del Morro in the backgroundKite flying in front of the Fort San Felipe del Morro.Even kitty witties feel the heat.The view of Plaza Colon from the rooftop bar at Hotel Alma. Mar y Rosa.Castillo San CristobalMore beautiful buildings. More views from Mar y Rosa.We finished the extremely hot day at Vivo Beach Club. Vivo Beach ClubOcean Lab Brewery at Vivo Beach ClubMuseo de Arte de Puerto RicoMuseo de Arte de Puerto Rico“Till Death Do Us Part” By Anaida Hernández. “This impressive artwork documents and denounces gender violence in a society where the values of “machismo” still prevail. The 100 squares represent the cases of 100 women, victims of their consensual partners between January 1990 and June 1993.” (From the plaque at the gallery)The first time I have ever seen a depiction and description of art done in Braille. “Hall of Regions” By Jaime Suárez. (Clay impressions on paper)“Flora of Puerto Rico” By Ángel Botello“No Crying Allowed in the Barber Shop” By Pepón Osorio“The Garden of Intolerance: In the End, Like Fathers, Like Made Men, Like Heros” by Arnaldo Roche Rabell Can you find the inspiration from three of Van Gogh’s pieces. “Sorrowing Old Man”, “Sower at Sunset”, and “The Sower.”Such a beautiful space. It is SO hard to choose all these amazing pieces to share with you! I’m going to keep trying…In this gallery all the pieces were donated from people’s private collections. This piece is entitled “Cariboradodo I” by Antonio MartorellSome of the amazing stretched canvases from Zilia Sanchez’s “Topologies” exhibit. “El agua no tiene enemigos (Water no get enemy)” By Jean “Baco” OrtizThe sculpture garden outside of Museo de Arte de Puerto RicoCan you spot the Common Puerto Rican Ameiva?“Conflicting Evidence” by Dhara Rivera“Two Sisters” By Ángel BotelloSculpture Garden MuralsMore art around SanturceFun bar cart, Grimorio, at Lote 23“Puerto Rico will rise” Is a rallying cry used in Puerto Rico, particularly after major events like Hurricane Maria, to symbolize resilience and the spirit of rebuilding. You how I love murals 😉 This one is on our block. Random street rooster, if you are catching a theme, are everywhere. Represent! 🙂
We just finished three terrific weeks in Lima. It was so wonderful I was sad to leave and I know that we will be back!
During the past two weeks since I’ve written we enjoyed an easy pace exploring. The week of the 5th we celebrated with a lovely dinner at Huaca Pucllana. I visited another pyramid in town called Huaca Huallamarca. Like Huaca Pucllana, it was built to serve as a ceremonial and funerary center by the ancient Lima culture. I also visited the adorable turtles in Parque Olivar again. I checked out the Centro Cultural PUCP where there was an exhibit called Las Manos que Danzan where I got to see some of the amazing masks, puppets and sculptures created by Edmundo Torres.
Friday night the 9th we went to DanSa and it was as awesome as the reviews said it would be. The food, drinks, music and dancing were truly spectacular. How they were able to create such good food from all over Peru; ceviche, stuffed peppers, duck and lamb, for so many people was an impressive feat. I’m so glad we went!
The next day we were able to meet our friends one more time for lunch at El Aguajal which specializes in delicious food from the Amazon. Think cured meats, plantains, chicken and incredible spices. After lunch we visited the Museo Larco. It is a museum that has a very impressive private collection of Pre-Columbian art. On Sunday the 11th we finally made it to Barranco. Barranco was founded in 1874 and is known for its Colonial architecture, colorful murals, churches, lively bars and ocean views. It was a wonderful day.
Last week in Lima I visited the beach, returned to Barranco to visit the Lima Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC). We went to Carnaval Bar which is on the list of the top 50 bars in the world and had some fun and tasty drinks. I also visited The Place of Memory, Tolerance and Social Inclusion is a museum in Lima, Peru, dedicated to the Peruvian internal conflict of the 1980s and 1990s. The week finished off with a delicious dinner at Song Peruvian Cuisine Fusion restaurant not too far from our place. We got fortune cookies to finish off the meal and we both got the same fortune! It said “La vida es una aventura, atrévete.” It directly translates as “life is an adventure, dare.” When I looked into the word atrévete further, as I had never heard it before, it is slang and basically means to dare to have the courage to get out of the ordinary, leaving the conventional things. How apropos?! I asked the server if all the fortunes were the same since Dave and I got the same one so he brought us two more cookies and I got the same fortune a second time! I wonder if the universe was telling us something? ?
This past Saturday we made the transition from Lima to Puerto Rico. We have been to PR one other time, 10 years ago, and only for a long MLK weekend. We loved it when we were here and wanted to return and have more time to explore the island since our last visit we only saw Isla Verde and the area around Old San Juan. It was a long day since we had to get up at 245 am and everything went smoothly. After we landed we picked up our rental car at the San Juan Airport we drove to Ponce where we’re spending the week. We arrived around 8pm after a pit stop in Caguas for some incredibly delicious tacos and queso fundido at La Matraca Taqueria. Whoever wrote that some of the best food can be found in a strip mall was definitely talking about this place!
Aside from still being able to practice my Spanish, I kinda feel like I’m having reverse culture shock after being out of the United States for the past five months. We’re north of the equator, using US dollars and have 5G. We also are noticing how much more expensive things have gotten since we left, especially compared to South America. I went to the grocery store yesterday and it was comparable to Norwegian prices! ?
Since we’re only here for the week we wanted to use Sunday to explore the area. We didn’t realize how remote the place we booked was. This realization was similar to what happened to us when we were in the middle of nowhere in Southern Ireland. Needless to say, even after almost two years of experience, the learning curve is still very steep. And, we had an opportunity to put into practice all that we have learned about going with the flow. It could always be worse. Our Air BnB is really nice and the additional cost to extend our car for the week was small compared to the alternative of being somewhat stranded. Now we’re able to see and do things as we hoped.
After a trip to the Ponce airport, luckily we didn’t have to drive all the way back to San Juan, another blessing, we finally began our day of exploring around noon. We started out by trying to find a La Soplaera Waterfall that was recommended to us by our host. The waterfall was supposed to take 45 minutes to get to, and we had to abort our mission a little over an hour in when Google brought us to a very steep gravel road on what seemed to be a farm in the mountain. We decided to make the smart choice and changed course for La Parguera.. La Parguera is a cute little town on the water near the southwestern end of the island. It has shops, bars and restaurants. We did a little exploring and got some information on a bioluminescent bay tour we might try and take later this week. We finished off our day in the center of Ponce peeping at the historic architecture and eating a delicious pizza. I also had ranch for my first time since December and it was delicious!
I’m looking forward to having the car to drive around and explore for the first time since the US/Canada portion of this adventure, almost a year ago now. I’m also SUPER excited that I get to finally see some of my family in just four days!!! My dad, sister, and my two youngest nephews are coming to visit for a few days and I can’t wait! I haven’t seen my dad and sister since the end of January and I haven’t seen my nephews since Christmas. I am very much looking forward to some quality time together and am incredibly grateful to them for making it happen!
I hope you are doing well and I’m sending you a universe of love wherever you are!
Alison
PS Dave has been working really hard on his data collection from our adventure and has created a very cool site where you can view it. He added a tab to the home page of our outoftheswamlows website entitled “travel data” so definitely take some time to check it out. It also has its own link: Data.outoftheswamlows.com
Huaca PucllanaSea bass at Huaca Pucllana. I think part of the reason I love the food in Lima so much is all of the delicious sauces!!!Celebrating three years of being cancer free!Huaca HuallamarcaI can never get enough of the historic mates! The museum at Huaca HuallamarcaHuaca HuallamarcaThe juxtaposition of this being right in the city is mind blowing. The pyramid was constructed from small adobe bricks and straw, and the remains of tombs, pottery and mummies have been excavated here. Lima was founded by the Spanish in 1535. It is pretty incredible to be able to stand in so much history.Parque OlivarI didn’t see the wee one in the middle at first. 🙂So happy together!I’m so glad my friend recommended this place. I feel like this picture captures how truly beautiful Lima is when the sun comes out! So gnarly! Parque Olivar Las Manos que Danzan by Edmundo Torres. Centro Cultural PUCPThe view from the esplanade at night. Illuminated designs of the geoglyphs you can see in Nazca. Parque Maria Reiche, LimaGoing to the beach. Playas de la CostaLooking back up at the esplanade. An homage to the surfers. Waiting for the show to start. DanSaThe incredible band. So much color and energy. The amazing performers of DanSa!Museo LarcoAncestral Moche Individual and two-headed serpent. (1 AD-800 AD)Portrait vessels Moche. (1 AD-800 AD)Moche-Huari Brocade (800 AD-1300 AD)Gold funerary offering from the Chimu Imperial Epoch around 900 AD. (Museo Larco has not changed their signage to BCE and CE)One of several halls of “open storage” displays at Museo Larco. Just to give you a taste of how expansive their collection is.The gardens at the museum were beautiful too!Views from the esplanade in Barranco.They really take care to make it a beautiful place to walk. Zoomed in views of the peninsula where the cross is illuminated at night. And little surfers. Lima loves Mafalda too!Parque Municipal de Barranco.The adorable biblioteca (library). BarrancoContinuing my love for the talented muralists of Lima. The Bridge of Sighs is a wooden pedestrian overpass located between the Hermitage of Barranco and the Paseo Chabuca Granda. The bridge opened in 1876.Iglesia La Ermita de Barranco. Built in 1901 it has been closed to the public since an earthquake happened in 1940.Murals by Cake located along the Bajada de Baños which is a historic staircase that leads down to beach from the church square. Just to help us remember where we are. 😉More of the amazing murals along the Bajada de Baños“I don’t make memories legendary, nostalgia no longer tempts me. I live for today, not in yesterday nor in tomorrow.” (Well said!)The following pictures of animals are all part of the exhibit entitled Conversations in the Zoo by Moico Yaker. Lima Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC)No Title by Wifredo Lam. Lima Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC)Construccion 1 by Gaston GarreaudLa espera by Carlos Runcie TanakaNo Title by Miguel AndradeHumanidad Perdida (Lost Humanity) by Rafael PascualeDefinitely worth the hour + walk back to Barranco!Carnaval BarRamyThe CarnavalAyahuasca 😉Place of Memory, Tolerance and Social Inclusion (LUM) Lugar de la Memoria, la Tolerancia y la Inclusión Social – LUMLUMLUMThe view from the LUM rooftop. Back to the beach. Buena Suerte (Good Luck) Song Restaurant-LimaLa Parguera-Puerto Rico
