The past two weeks in Chile were wonderful. I feel like throughout this adventure, at least since we realized we need more than one week in a place, that three weeks is my sweet spot. When we were originally planning our time in Chile we were debating about whether or not we should spend one of the weeks at the coast. When we did the research we found that if you wanted to get to the coast from Santiago there weren’t any trains and that you’d have to take a bus, since we didn’t want to rent a car. Then we realized that it was only an additional $35 to stay an extra week at our Air BnB, which was too good of a deal to pass up, so that is how we ended up spending four weeks in Santiago. After our day trip to the coast we received the validation we needed that that was the right choice. I’m glad we were able to see Vina del Mar and Valparaiso, and I’m glad we didn’t spend a week there!
We definitely had some new adventures in the last two weeks! On February 25th we experienced our first international blackout. I was out exploring and received a text from Dave that said “I’m assuming the power is out?” I hadn’t noticed as the stoplights were still working, for the most part, but then I noticed that a lot of the stores were dark or closed. Then I became aware the streets started getting more crowded with people. Dave had to leave work since he didn’t have the internet and so we met up and took it all in together. The people on the street were lined up around the block waiting for buses since they weren’t able to take the subway. It was quite a sight to see. I will say the biggest thing I noticed was, much like in Mexico City, everyone just waited patiently even though the sun was out and it was 85 degrees. No one was pushing or shoving or yelling like I feel it would’ve been in the States. Such a different way of life and I am here for it. I was thankful Dave and I were together when we returned to our building because the stairwell was pitch black so we had to use our cell phone lights to make the 16 story climb up to our apartment. Luckily the keypad to unlock the door was separate from the universal electrical grid so we were able to get inside and by 8 o’clock at night it wasn’t too hot. Also, fortunately, the power came back on around 1130pm and everything was fine the next day. We learned that one of the transformers went out in the north of Chile and knocked out power for 14 of the 16 regions, yikes!
On the 26th we celebrated 18 months of this adventure! Dave had to work late that night so we went out to dinner at a French restaurant called Baco on the 27th. I had some of the best sea bass I have ever eaten and everything was so delicious I forgot to take pictures of any of it! The only picture I took inside the restaurant was of the sauce that splattered on the table cloth from the huevo meurette, which is a classic Burgundian dish consisting of poached eggs served with a rich, red wine sauce, often featuring bacon, onions, and shallots, that we gobbled down. We also had baked camembert and delicious wine. It was a great way to mark the major milestone.
March 1st we took our third tour while in Santiago with Viator to see the Andes Mountains and the Inca Lagoon and it was truly spectacular! Our first stop was to get a view of the highest mountain in all the Americas called the Aconcagua, 6,960meters (22,834 feet) above sea level and is located in Argentina. The Andes Mountains are breathtaking to say the least. All the layers reminded me of those construction paper art projects that we did in elementary school where you tear the paper and then layer it on top of each other. Anyway, it was a clear day so we were able to see Aconcagua in all its glory! After seeing the mountain we went to In Situ Family Vineyards and got to try more of the delicious Carmenere that we’ve grown to love. As we continued our trip through the mountains we stopped at Ventisquero Guardia Vieja which was basically a roadside restaurant that had llamas and more beautiful views. On our way to the Inca Lagoon we took Los Libertadores International Pass and Los Caracoles Route which has “29 tough switchbacks on a steep incline, it is also one of the most difficult roads in the world to travel. The road begins on the Chilean side, with a steep climb, approximately 50 kilometers from Los Andes and 70 kilometers from Santiago” (Google) This road is impressive to say the least and there are zero guard rails! In the winter skiers ski down over the structures that cover the road to which I say no thank you. Our last stop for the day was the beautiful Inca Lagoon at Portillo Ski Hill. We ate lunch at Tio Bob’s the restaurant at the resort overlooking the lake and then were able to walk around and explore a little before we returned to Santiago. It was a wonderful day and was well worth it!
Last week we took advantage of the extra time we had in Santiago and it was nice and relaxing. I went to the top of the Gran Torre in the Costenara Center which was pretty spectacular with its 360 degree views of Santiago and the surrounding mountains. We also ate at some pretty delicious restaurants. We went to Margo Isadora on Sunday for lunch and it was spectacular! I also ate at El Camino Diner where I had my first dill pickles since we left Santa Fe and they were fried too! Yum! And I also ate at another French restaurant called Le Bistrot de Gaetan which had a truffle fettuccine that dreams are made of! I will say the food in Santiago did not disappoint and we can’t wait to go back and visit some day!
On Saturday we made a very seamless transition to Buenos Aires. I was ecstatic to learn that it is safe to drink the tap water here especially since we haven’t been able to do that since we left Santa Fe. We have a very comfortable and spacious Air BnB in the Recoleta neighborhood. After getting settled we went and had dinner at Pizzería Güerrín that was recommended to us by a friend in Santiago and has been making delicious pizza since 1932. The restaurant is located in the bustling Theater District and feels very much like NYC! We walked around a little after dinner and saw the obelisk (Obelisco de Buenos Aires), the outside of the Teatro Colón and walked past the Plaza Lavalle which is one of the many city parks.
Yesterday we got to see more of the city in the daylight. We had a delicious brunch at Dandy Santa Fe on our way to Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur which is a beautiful nature preserve near the water. After that we walked to Puerto Madero which is a cute area that has a bunch of restaurants along the Rio Dique and saw the Puente de la Mujer (the women’s bridge). We finished our walking tour in San Templo where there was a bustling street market and lots of antique shops and interesting architecture. Buenos Aires definitely has a cool mixture of old and new when it comes to architecture and I’m looking forward to seeing more of it before we leave on April 5th.
On Thursday we make our way to Patagonia for a week and I am very excited to finally get to see the geographical region that we have been dreaming about visiting for years. We will spend some time in El Calafate where we have an excursion booked to visit Perito Moreno Glacier. It is noteworthy because it is one of the few glaciers in the world that is growing instead of retreating. Then we’ll spend a few days in El Chalten where we are planning on doing several hikes with hopes of catching some views of the amazing Mt. Fitz Roy. Mt. Fitz Roy is 11,171 feet tall and is the mountain on the border of Argentina and Chile. You may also recognize it from the logo for the Patagonia clothing line. 🙂 I have no doubt that it will be spectacular! We miss our people and are sending you love wherever you are!
Alison 🙂
